（神农食经）
【气味】苦甘，微寒，无毒。
【主治】主悦志有力，令人少睡，止渴，利小便，去痰热，治 疮。
苦茗（华佗食论）
苦茗，久食益意思。
茶（陆羽茶传）
茶之为用，味至寒，为饮，最宜精行俭德之人。若热渴凝闷，脑痛目涩，四肢烦，百节
不舒，聊四五啜，与醍醐甘露抗衡也。
【核】曰∶茗为世所称尚，颐虽未能知味，然亦未能忘情。每读治茗诸书，不啻数十种，
俱各载稿集，卒难汇考，不揣条录核左，以备博采。云神农氏前有食经，遵之为首。陆羽茶
经，例应为传。后代诸书，递相为疏为注矣。传本不妄去取，余则采其隽永者，人各为政，
不相沿袭。彼创一义，而此释之；甲送一难，而乙驳之，奇奇正正，靡所不有，政如春秋为
经，而案之左氏，公谷为传，而断之是非，末则间有所评，小子不敏，奚敢多让矣。然书以
笔札简当为工，词华丽则为尚，而器用之精良，赏鉴之贵重，我则未之或暇也。盖有含英吐
花，收奇觅秘者，在编凡十有六，而茶事尽矣。
一、溯源
茶者，南方之嘉木。其树如瓜芦，叶如卮子，花如白蔷薇，实如棕榈，蕊如丁香，根如
胡桃。其名一曰茶，二曰 ，三曰 ，四曰茗，五曰 。山南以陕州上，襄州、荆州次，衡
南以光州上，义阳郡舒州次，寿州下，蕲州黄州又下；浙西以湖
州上，常州次，宣州睦州歙州下，润州苏州又下；剑南以彭州上，绵州蜀州邛州次，雅州泸
州下，眉州汉州又下；浙东以越州上，明州 州次，台州下。黔中生恩州、播州、费州、夷
州；江南生鄂州、袁州、吉州；岭南生建州、福州、韶州、象州，其恩、播、费、夷、鄂、
袁、吉、建、福、韶、象，十一州未详。往往得之，其味极佳。（茶传陆羽，字鸿渐，一名
疾，字季疵，号桑苎翁着）按唐时产茶地，仅仅如季疵所称。而今之虎丘、罗 、天池、顾
渚、松萝、龙井、雁宕、武
有之，但培植不嘉，或疏采制耳。（茶解罗廪，字高君着）吴楚山谷间，气清地灵，草木颖
挺，多孕茶 。大率右于武夷者为白乳；甲于吴兴者为紫笋。产禹穴者以天章显；茂钱唐者
以径山稀。至于续卢之岩，云衡之麓，雅山着于无歙，蒙顶传于岷蜀，角立差胜，毛举实繁。
（煮茶泉品叶清臣着）唐人首称阳羡，宋人最重建州。于今贡茶，两地独多，阳羡仅有其名，
建州亦非上品，唯武夷雨前最胜。近日所尚者，为长兴之罗 ，疑即古顾渚紫笋。然 有数
处，今唯洞山最重。姚伯道云∶明月之峡，厥有佳茗，韵致清远，滋味甘香，足称仙品。其
在顾渚，亦有佳者，今但以水口茶名之，全与 别矣。若歙之松萝，吴之虎丘，杭之龙井，
并可与 颉颃。郭次甫极称黄山，黄山亦在歙，去松萝远甚。往时士人皆重天池，然饮之略
多，令人胀满。浙之产曰雁宕、大盘、金华、日铸，皆与武夷相伯仲。钱唐诸山，产茶甚多，
南山尽佳，北山稍劣。武夷之外，有泉州之清源，倘以好手制之，亦是武夷亚匹，惜多焦枯，
令人意尽。楚之产曰宝庆，滇之产曰五华，皆表表有名，在雁茶之上。其他名山所产，当不
止此，或余未知，或名未着，故不及论。（茶疏许次杼，字然明着）
【评】曰∶昔人以陆羽饮茶，比于后稷树谷然哉，及观韩 谢赐茶启云∶吴主礼贤，方
闻置茗，晋人爱客，才有分茶，则知开创之功，虽不始于桑苎，而制茶自出至季疵而始备矣。
嗣后名山之产，灵草渐繁，人工之巧，佳茗日着，皆以季疵为墨守，即谓开山之祖可也。其
蔡君谟而下为传灯之士。又曰∶茶系生人后天，随身衣报，盖地灵钟秀，或古之所产，今无
取焉者，谓冰土频移，山川性易，灵从何来，秀从何起，生人依报，宁复居恒，人苦不思本
耳。以上溯其源也。
二、得地
上者生烂石，中者生砾壤，下者生黄土。野者上，园者次。阴山坡谷者，不堪采啜。（茶
传）产茶处，山之夕阳，胜于朝阳；庙后山西向，故称佳，总不如洞山南向，受阳气特专，
称仙品。（ 山茶记熊明道着）茶地南向为佳，向阴者遂劣。故一山之中，美恶相悬。（茶解）
茶产平地，受土气多，故其质浊； 茶产于高山，浑是风露清虚之气，故可尚。（ 山茶记）
茶固不宜杂以恶木，唯桂、梅、辛夷、玉兰、玫瑰、苍松、翠竹，与之间植，足以蔽覆霜雪，
掩映秋阳；其下可植芳兰幽菊清芳之物，最忌菜畦相逼，不免渗漉，滓厥清真。（茶解）
【评】曰∶疆理天下，物其土宜；广谷大川异制，人居其间异形；瘠土民 ，沃土民浓；
坚
悉效其形，知其利害，达其志欲，定其山川，分其圻界，条其物产，辨其贡赋，斯为得地。
人犹如此，奚惟茗乎。
三、乘时
采茶在二月、三月、四月之间。茶之笋者，生烂石沃土，长四五寸，若薇蕨始抽，凌露
采焉
清明太早，去夏太迟，谷雨前后，其时适中。若再迟一二日，待其气力完足，香烈犹倍，
易于收藏。（茶疏）
茶以初出雨前者佳。唯罗 立夏开园，吴中所贵，梗桷叶浓，便有萧箬之气，还是夏前
六七日，如雀舌者佳， 片亦好。（ 茶记）
非夏前不摘，初试摘者，谓之开园；采自正夏，谓之春茶。其地稍寒，故须得此，又
不当以太迟病之。往时无秋日摘者，近乃有之，七八月重摘一番，谓之早春，其品甚佳。不
嫌少薄，他山射利，多摘梅茶。梅茶苦涩，且伤秋摘，佳产戒之。（茶疏）
双径两天目茶，立夏后，小满前，仅摘一次，断不复采。唯餐雨露，绝禁肥壤，故收藏
岁久。色香味转胜，凌露无云。采候之上，霁日融和；采候之次，积雨重阴，不知其可。（茶
说
【评】曰∶时不可违，候不可失，桑苎翁时中之圣者欤。千载而下，采制之期，无能逾
其时日，罗高君少有更变者，更体山川之寒暄，察草木之含吐，待时而兴，应时而起，不妄
作劳，不伤物力。
四、揆制
其日有雨不采，晴有云不采。晴采之，蒸之，捣之，拍之，焙之，穿之，封之，茶之干
矣。（茶传）
断茶以甲，不以指，以甲则速断不柔，以指则多湿易损。（东坡试茶录宋子安着）
其茶初摘，香气未透，必借火力以发其香。然茶性不耐劳，炒不宜久，多取入铛，则手
力不匀，久于铛中过热，而香散矣。炒茶之铛，最嫌新铁，须预取一铛，毋得别作他用。炒
茶之薪，仅可树皮，不用干叶。干则火力猛炽，叶则易焰易灭。铛必磨洗莹洁，旋摘旋
炒。一铛之内，仅用四两，先用文火炒，次加武火催之。手加木指，急急抄转，以半熟为度
，微俟香发，是其候也。（茶疏）
茶初摘时，须拣去枝梗老叶，惟取嫩叶，又须去尖与柄与筋，恐其易焦，此松萝法也。
炒时须一人从旁扇之，以祛热气，否则黄色，香味俱减。余所亲试，扇者色翠，不扇色黄。
炒起出铛时，置大磁盘中，仍须急扇，令热气消退，以手重揉之，再散入铛，文火炒干，入
焙，盖揉则其津上浮，点时香味易出。田子 以生晒不炒不揉者为佳。偶试之，但作热汤，
并日腥草气，殊无佳韵也。（茶笺闻龙，字隐鳞，初字仲达着）
火烈香清，铛寒神倦；火烈生焦，柴疏失翠；久延则过熟，速起却还生；熟则犯黄，生
则着
经云焙，凿池深二尺，阔一尺五寸，长一丈。上作短墙，高二尺，泥之以木，构于焙上。
编木两层，高一尺以焙茶。茶之半干，升下棚，全干升上棚。愚谓今人不必全用此法，予尝
构小焙室，高不逾寻，方不及丈，纵广正等，四围及顶，绵纸密糊，无小罅隙。置三四火缸
于中，安新竹筛于缸内，预先洗新麻布一片以亲之，散所炒茶于筛上，阖户而焙，上向不可
覆盖盖茶。叶尚润，一覆则气闷罨黄，须焙二三时，俟润气尽，然覆以竹箕，焙极干，出缸
待冷，入器收藏。后再焙，亦用此法。色香与味，不致太减。（茶笺）
茶之妙，在乎始造之精，藏之得法，点之得宜。优劣定乎始铛，清浊系乎末火。（茶录）
诸名茶，法多用炒。唯罗 专于蒸焙，味真蕴藉，世竞珍之。即顾渚阳羡，密迩洞山，不复
仿此。想此法偏宜于 ，未可概施他茗。而经已云蒸之焙之，则所从来远矣。（茶笺）必得
色全，唯须用扇，必全香味，当时焙炒，此制茶之准绳，传茶之衣钵。（茗芨）
【评】曰∶溯源、得地、乘时，尽物之性矣。揆制失节，仍同草芥。能尽人之性，则能
尽物之性。
五、藏茗
育以木制之，以竹编之，以纸糊之，中有楠，上有覆，下有床，傍有门，掩一扇，一器
贮
藏茶宜箬叶而畏香，茶喜温燥而忌冷湿。收藏时先用青箬，以竹丝编之，置罂四周，焙
茶俟冷，贮器中，以生炭火 过，烈日中曝之令灭，乱插茶中，封固罂口，覆以新砖，置高
爽近人处，霉天雨候，切忌发覆。取用须于晴明时，取少许，别贮小瓶，空缺处，即以箬填
满，封置如故，方为可久。或夏至后一焙，或秋分后一焙。（ 山茶记）
切勿临风近火，临风易冷，近火先黄。（茶录）
凡贮茶之器，始终贮茶，不得移为他用。（茶解）
吴人绝重 茶，往往杂以黄黑箬，大是缺事。余每藏茶，必令樵青，入山采竹箭箬，拭
净烘干，护罂四周，半用剪
碎，拌入茶中，经年发覆，青翠如新。（茶笺）
置顿之所，须在时时坐卧之处，逼近人气，则常温不寒。必在板房，不宜土室；板房
燥，上室易蒸；又要透风，勿置幽隐之处，尤易蒸湿。（茶录）
罗生言茶酒二事，至今日可称精绝，前无古人，止可与深知者道耳。夫茶酒超前代希有
之精
【评】曰∶治茗如创业，藏茗如守业。创业易，守业难。守之难，又不如用之者更难。
如保赤子，几微是防。
六、品泉
山水上，江水中，井水下。山水择乳泉、石池、漫流者上，其瀑涌湍漱勿食，久食令人
有颈
之以流其恶，使新泉涓涓然酌之。其江水，取去人远者。（茶传）
山宣气以养万物，气宣则脉长，故曰山水上；泉不难于清，而难于寒，其濑峻流驶而清，
岩
江，公也。众水共入其中也。水共则味杂，故曰江水次之；其水取去人远者，盖去人远，
则
余少得温氏所着茶说，尝试其水泉之目，有二十焉。会西走巴峡，经虾蟆窟，北憩芜城，
汲蜀冈井，东游故都，绝杨子江，留丹阳，酌观音泉，过无锡， 惠山泉水，粉枪末旗，苏
兰薪桂，且鼎且缶，以饮以啜，莫不瀹气涤虑，蠲病析酲，祛鄙吝之生心，招神明而还观，
信乎物类之得宜，臭味之所感，幽人之嘉尚，前贤之精鉴不可及矣。（煮茶泉品）
山顶泉清而轻，山下泉清而重。石中泉清而甘，砂中泉清而冽。土中泉清而白，流于黄
石、
山浓者泉浓，山奇者泉奇；山清者泉清，山幽者泉幽，皆佳品也。不浓则薄，不奇则蠢；
不
泉不甘，则损茶味。前代之论水品者以此。（茶谱蔡襄，字君谟着）
吾乡四陲皆山，泉水在在有之。然皆淡而不甘，独所谓它泉者。其源出自四明潺 洞
，历大兰小皎诸名岫，迥溪百折，幽涧千支，沿洄漫衍，不舍昼夜。唐鄞令王公元伟，筑埭
它山，以分注江河，自洞抵埭，不下三数里。水色蔚蓝，素砂白石，粼粼见底。清寒甘滑，
甲于郡中。余愧不能为浮家泛宅，送老于斯。每一临泛，浃旬忘返，携茗就烹，珍鲜特甚。
洵源泉之最胜，瓯牺之上味矣。以僻在海陬，图经是漏，故又新之记罔闻。季疵之杓莫及，
遂不得与谷帘诸泉齿，譬犹飞遁吉人，灭影贞士，直将逃名世外，亦且永托知稀矣。（茶笺）
山泉稍远，接竹引之，承之以奇石，贮之以净缸，其声琮琮可爱，移水取石子，虽养其
味
甘泉旋汲，用之斯良。丙舍在城，夫岂易得。故宜多汲，贮以大瓮，但忌新器，为其火
气未退易于败水，亦易生虫，久用则善。最嫌他用，水性忌木，松杉为甚，木桶贮水，其害
滋甚，挈瓶为佳耳。（茶疏）
烹茶须甘泉，次梅水。梅雨如膏，万物赖以滋养，其味独甘，梅后便不堪饮。大瓮满贮，
投伏龙肝一块，即灶中心赤土也，乘热收之。（茶解）
烹茶水之功居六，无泉则用天水，秋雨为上，梅雨次之。秋雨冽而白，梅雨醇而白；雪
水五谷之精也，但色不能白；养水须置石子于瓮，不唯益水，而白石清泉，会心亦不在远。
壬寅腊八，过南屏，僧碧婆煮茶，不拘老嫩，皆可人口。又不在茶具，虽饭镬中，亦称其旨，
时与之游，遂成茶癖。每令长须远汲虎跑泉，葛仙翁井，或索友人携来惠山泉水，以茶之妙
在水发也。每值梅雨，托布承接，或荷叶，或磁盘，或以锡作板，溜积瓮中，试烹
都有雾气，远不及泉水之清且洁也。一日偶取所蓄梅雨，见孑孓乌虫数十百，跳跃碗内，遂
都好，但未可就用，须置器日久，俟其色变虫去，色香味始妙，不似山泉但可留数日，久即
味变也。此后不烦远役奴子，亦不颛取梅雨，唯待久雨时，向急溜中，大缸承贮。月余后，
（《神农食经》）
【气味】味苦、甘，性微寒，无毒。
【主治】主要能愉悦心志并增强体力，使人减少睡眠，缓解口渴，通利小便，清除痰热，治疗疮疡。
苦茗（《华佗食论》）
苦茗，长期食用有益于思维意念。
茶（陆羽《茶传》）
茶的功效在于，其味道极寒，作为饮品，最适合品行端正、生活节俭的人饮用。如果感到热渴、郁结闷胀，头痛目涩，四肢烦扰不适，全身关节不畅，只需喝上四五口，其功效便可与醍醐（酥酪精华）和甘露（天降甘霖）相抗衡。
【考证】曰：茗被世人所推崇，我卢之颐虽然未能完全领略其滋味，但也未能忘情于其中。每次研读关于茶的书籍，不下数十种，都各自收录在稿集中，最终难以汇总考证，我不揣冒昧逐条记录如下，以备广泛采择。据说在神农氏之前就有《食经》，因此尊其为开篇之首。陆羽的《茶经》，体例上应作为传记。后代的各类书籍，相继对其进行疏解和注释。传记部分不随意删减取舍，其余内容则选取其中精妙深远的部分，各人发挥所长，互不沿袭。这一家创立一种义理，那一家进行解释；甲提出一个难题，乙予以驳斥，奇正交错，无所不有，正如《春秋》作为经文，而由《左传》来记载史实，《公羊传》《谷梁传》作为传注，而由《春秋繁露》等书来判定是非，最后偶尔有所评论，我虽不敏，怎敢多辞让呢？然而书籍以笔墨简练恰当为工巧，辞藻华丽则为崇尚，至于器具使用的精良、鉴赏的贵重，我却无暇顾及。大概那些蕴含精华、吐露芬芳，寻求奇特、探觅奥秘的内容，在此编中凡十六章，关于茶的事情就详尽无遗了。
一、溯源
茶，是南方的优良树木。它的树形像瓜芦，叶子像栀子花，花朵像白蔷薇，果实像棕榈，花蕊像丁香，根像胡桃。它的名号有一个叫茶，二个叫蔎，三个叫荈，四个叫茗，五个叫诧。山南道以陕州产茶为上品，襄州、荆州次之；衡山以南以光州为上品，义阳郡、舒州次之，寿州下品，蕲州、黄州又更下品；浙西道以湖州为上品，常州次之，宣州、睦州、歙州下品，润州、苏州又更下品；剑南道以彭州为上品，绵州、蜀州、邛州次之，雅州、泸州下品，眉州、汉州又更下品；浙东道以越州为上品，明州、台州次之，台州下品。黔中生茶的地方有恩州、播州、费州、夷州；江南生茶的地方有鄂州、袁州、吉州；岭南生茶的地方有建州、福州、韶州、象州，其中恩、播、费、夷、鄂、袁、吉、建、福、韶、象这十一州的情况不详。往往能得到这些地方的茶，味道极佳。（出自陆羽《茶传》，陆羽字鸿渐，一名疾，字季疵，号桑苎翁著）按唐代产茶之地，仅仅如陆羽（字季疵）所称述的那样。而现在的虎丘、罗岕、天池、顾渚、松萝、龙井、雁宕、武彝等地都有出产，只是栽培管理不够好，或者采摘制作比较粗糙罢了。（出自罗廪《茶解》，罗廪字高君著）吴楚之间的山谷地带，空气清新，土地灵秀，草木挺拔，大多孕育出优质的茶叶。大致来说，武夷山的茶被称为“白乳”最为优秀；吴兴地区的茶被称为“紫笋”最为第一。产于禹穴附近的茶因天章寺而闻名；茂钱唐地区的茶因径山茶而稀有。至于续卢之岩、云衡之麓，雅山在无歙出名，蒙顶在岷蜀流传，各自独立争胜，列举起来实在繁多。（出自叶清臣《煮茶泉品》，叶清臣著）唐人首先称颂阳羡茶，宋人最重视建州茶。如今进贡的茶，这两地最多，但阳羡仅有其名，建州也不是上品，只有武夷雨前茶最为出色。近日所崇尚的，是长兴的罗岕茶，怀疑就是古代的顾渚紫笋。然而罗岕有好几处，现在只有洞山茶最受重视。姚伯道说：“明月峡中有佳茗，韵味清远，滋味甘香，足以称为仙品。”在顾渚也有好的，现在只用水口茶来称呼它，完全与罗岕不同了。如果歙州的松萝，吴州的虎丘，杭州的龙井，都可以与罗岕不相上下。郭次甫极力称赞黄山茶，黄山也在歙州，距离松萝很远。过去士人都重视天池茶，然而喝得稍微多一点，就会让人腹胀。浙江出产的有雁宕、大盘、金华、日铸，都与武夷茶不相上下。钱塘诸山出产的茶很多，南山产的都好，北山产的稍差。除了武夷之外，还有泉州的清源茶，如果有高手制作，也是武夷茶的亚匹，可惜大多焦枯，令人意兴索然。楚地出产的叫宝庆茶，滇地出产的叫五华茶，都很有名，在雁茶之上。其他名山出产的，应当不止这些，或许是我不知道，或者是名声未显，所以不及讨论。（出自许次杼《茶疏》，许次杼字然明著）
【评】曰：过去人们把陆羽饮茶比作后稷种植谷物，确实如此。等到看到韩愈《谢赐茶启》中说：“吴主礼贤，方才听说置办茗茶；晋人爱客，才有分茶之举”，就知道开创之功，虽然不始于陆羽（桑苎），但制茶工艺从陆羽开始才完备。此后名山的出产，灵草逐渐繁盛，人工技艺巧妙，佳茗日益著名，都以陆羽为恪守遵循的标准，即使称他为开山之祖也可以。之后的蔡襄等人则是传承灯火之士。又说：茶系属于人类后天生存所需，如同随身衣物报应一样，大概是地气灵秀汇聚，或许是古代所产，如今不再取用的，说是冰土频繁移动，山川性质改变，灵气从何而来，秀气从何而起，人类赖以生存的依报，难道能恒常不变吗？是人苦于不思考本源罢了。以上追溯茶的源头。
二、得地
上等茶树生长在腐烂的石头土壤中，中等茶树生长在碎石壤土中，下等茶树生长在黄土中。野生的优于园种的。阴坡的山谷地带，不堪采摘饮用。（出自《茶传》）产茶的地方，山的夕阳面胜过朝阳面；庙后山因为向西，所以被称为佳茶，但总不如洞山向南，特别接受阳气，被称为仙品。（出自熊明道《岕山茶记》）茶地朝南为佳，朝阴的就劣。所以同一座山中，优劣相差悬殊。（出自《茶解》）茶产自平地，受土气多，所以质地浑浊；高山出产的茶，全是风露清虚之气，所以值得推崇。（出自《岕山茶记》）茶固然不适合混杂恶木，只有桂、梅、辛夷、玉兰、玫瑰、苍松、翠竹，与其间植，足以遮蔽覆盖霜雪，掩映秋阳；树下可以种植芳兰、幽菊等清香之物，最忌讳菜畦逼近，不免渗透渗漏，损害茶的清真本性。（出自《茶解》）
【评】曰：治理天下，要考察土地的适宜作物；广阔的河谷和大川制度不同，人居其间形态各异；贫瘠的土地百姓稀少，肥沃的土地百姓稠密；坚固的土地……全部效仿其形状，知晓利害，通达志欲，确定山川，划分疆界，条理物产，辨别贡赋，这就叫做得地。人尚且如此，何况是茗茶呢。
三、乘时
采茶在二月、三月、四月之间。茶中的笋芽，生长在烂石沃土，长四五寸，像薇蕨刚刚抽出，带着露水采摘。清明太早，立夏太迟，谷雨前后，时间适中。如果再推迟一两天，等它气力充足，香味猛烈加倍，易于收藏。（出自《茶疏》）
茶以初出雨后、谷雨前的为佳。只有罗岕茶立夏开园，吴地所珍贵的，梗节叶浓，便有萧箬之气，还是夏前六七天，像雀舌般的最好，片茶也好。（出自《岕茶记》）
不在夏前不采摘，初次采摘，叫做开园；采自正夏，叫做春茶。当地气候稍寒，所以必须得到此时的茶，也不应当认为太迟有什么毛病。过去没有秋日采摘的，近来有了，七八月再摘一次，叫做早春，品质很好。不嫌弃量少味薄，其他山为了获利，多摘梅茶。梅茶苦涩，而且伤害秋季采摘，对优质产地应戒除这种做法。（出自《茶疏》）
双径和天目山的茶，立夏后，小满前，仅摘一次，绝对不再采摘。只餐雨露，严禁施肥土壤，所以收藏多年。色香味转胜，凌露无云。采摘的好时机，是雨雪初晴天气温和；采摘的次好时机，是积雨重阴，不知是否可行。（出自《茶说》）
【评】曰：时节不可违背，候气不可错失，桑苎翁难道是把握时机的圣人吗？千年之下，采摘制作的时期，没有人能超越他的时日，罗高君少有变更的，更是体会山川的寒暖，观察草木的含吐，等待时机兴起，顺应时机行动，不妄自劳作，不损伤物力。
四、揆制
当天有雨不采，晴天有云不采。晴天采摘，蒸它，捣它，拍它，焙干它，穿起来，封存它，茶就干了。（出自《茶传》）
断截茶叶用指甲，不用手指，用指甲则快速切断且不伤柔嫩，用手指则多湿气易损坏。（出自宋子安《东坡试茶录》）
刚采摘的茶，香气未透，必须借火力来激发其香气。然而茶性不耐劳累，炒制不宜久，取入铛中过多，则手力不均匀，在铛中过热，香气就散失了。炒茶的铛，最嫌新铁锅，须预先选一口铛，不得作其他用途。炒茶的柴薪，只用树皮，不用干叶。干则火力猛炽，树叶容易燃烧也容易熄灭。铛必须磨洗洁净，边摘边炒。一铛之内，仅用四两，先用文火炒，再加武火催之。手加木指，急急抄转，以半熟为度，微微等待香气发出，这就是火候到了。（出自《茶疏》）
茶刚采摘时，须拣去枝梗老叶，只取嫩叶，又须去掉尖部、柄部和筋脉，恐怕容易焦糊，这是松萝法。炒时须一人从旁扇风，以祛除热气，否则颜色变黄，香味俱减。我所亲自试验，扇风的颜色翠绿，不扇风的颜色发黄。炒起出锅时，置于大磁盘中，仍须急扇，令热气消退，用手重揉它，再散入铛中，用文火炒干，放入焙笼，盖揉则其津液上浮，冲泡时香味易出。田子龙认为生晒不炒不揉的为佳。我偶然尝试，只做出热汤，并且带有腥草气，殊无佳韵。（出自闻龙《茶笺》，闻龙字隐鳞，初字仲达著）
火烈则香清，铛寒则神倦；火烈则生焦，柴疏则失翠；久延则过熟，速起却还生；熟则犯黄，生则着青。
经书记载焙茶，凿池深二尺，阔一尺五寸，长一丈。上面筑短墙，高二尺，用泥涂抹，架上木构，置于焙上。编织两层木板，高一尺用来焙茶。茶半干时，升到下层棚，全干时升到上层棚。我认为今人不必完全用此法，我曾构建小焙室，高不超过八尺，方不足一丈，纵横相等，四周及顶部，绵纸严密糊住，无小缝隙。放置三四火缸在其中，安放新竹筛于缸内，预先洗净新麻布一片铺在上面，将所炒茶散于筛上，关门焙制，上方不可覆盖盖住茶。叶尚湿润，一覆盖则气闷变黄，须焙二三小时，等湿气尽，然后覆盖竹箕，焙至极干，出缸待冷，入器收藏。以后再焙，也用此法。色香与味，不至于太减损。（出自《茶笺》）
茶的妙处，在于始造的精良，藏之得法，点之得宜。优劣定于初始的炒制，清浊系乎最后的火功。（出自《茶录》）
诸名茶，方法多用炒。只有罗岕专于蒸焙，味道真蕴藉，世人竞相珍视。即顾渚、阳羡，紧邻洞山，也不再仿效此法。想此法偏宜于罗岕，不可一概施用于其他茶。而经书已说蒸之焙之，则来源已经很久了。（出自《茶笺》）必须得到色泽完整，唯须用扇风；必须全保香味，当时焙炒，这是制茶的标准，传茶的衣钵。（出自《茗芨》）
【评】曰：溯源、得地、乘时，尽尽了物的本性。揆制失去节制，仍同草芥。能尽人的本性，则能尽物的本性。
五、藏茗
育茶器用木制，用竹编，用纸糊，中有楠木支撑，上有覆盖，下有床架，傍有门，掩一扇，一器贮茶。
藏茶宜用箬叶而怕香气干扰，茶喜温燥而忌冷湿。收藏时先用青箬，用竹丝编成，置于罂四周，焙茶待冷，贮入器中，用生炭火烤过，烈日中曝晒令其灭活，乱插茶中，封固罂口，覆以新砖，置于高爽近人处，霉天雨候，切忌发开覆盖。取用须在晴明时，取少许，别贮小瓶，空缺处，即以箬叶填满，封置如故，方可长久。或夏至后焙一次，或秋分后焙一次。（出自《岕山茶记》）
切勿临风近火，临风易冷，近火先黄。（出自《茶录》）
凡是贮茶的器，始终贮茶，不得移为他用。（出自《茶解》）
吴人极度重视罗岕茶，往往杂以黄黑箬叶，是大缺憾事。我每次藏茶，必令樵青，入山采竹箭箬，拭净烘干，护罂四周，半用剪碎，拌入茶中，经年发开覆盖，青翠如新。（出自《茶笺》）
放置之处，须在时时坐卧之处，逼近人气，则常温不寒。必在板房，不宜土室；板房燥，土室易蒸；又要透风，勿置幽隐之处，尤易蒸湿。（出自《茶录》）
罗生说茶酒二事，至今日可称精绝，前无古人，只可与深知者道耳。夫茶酒超前代希有之精……
【评】曰：治茗如创业，藏茗如守业。创业易，守业难。守之难，又不如用之者更难。如保护婴儿，细微之处都要防范。
六、品泉
山水上，江水中，井水下。山水选择乳泉、石池、漫流者为上，瀑布涌湍漱勿食，久食令人有颈瘤之患。引流水以排泄污秽，使新泉涓涓然酌取饮用。江水，取远离人群的地方。（出自《茶传》）
山宣发气以养万物，气宣则脉长，所以说山水上；泉水不难于清，而难于寒，其濑峻流驶而清，岩……
江，是公水。众水共入其中也。水共则味杂，所以说江水次之；取水取远离人群的地方，因为去人远，则……
我少时得到温氏所著的《茶说》，尝试其水泉的名目，有二十种。恰逢向西走巴峡，经过虾蟆窟，向北在芜城休息，汲取蜀冈井水，向东游历故都，横渡扬子江，停留丹阳，酌取观音泉，经过无锡，汲惠山泉水，粉枪末旗，苏兰薪桂，且鼎且缶，以饮以啜，无不瀹气涤虑，蠲病析酲，祛鄙吝之生心，招神明而还观，信乎物类之得宜，臭味之所感，幽人之嘉尚，前贤之精鉴不可及矣。（出自《煮茶泉品》）
山顶泉清而轻，山下泉清而重。石中泉清而甘，砂中泉清而冽。土中泉清而白，流于黄石、……
山浓者泉浓，山奇者泉奇；山清者泉清，山幽者泉幽，皆佳品也。不浓则薄，不奇则蠢；不……
泉不甘，则损茶味。前代之论水品者以此。（出自蔡襄《茶谱》，蔡襄字君谟著）
我的家乡四周都是山，泉水到处都有。然而都淡而不甘，唯独所谓它泉。其源出自四明潺湲洞，经过大兰小皎诸名山，迥溪百折，幽涧千支，沿洄漫衍，不舍昼夜。唐代鄞县令王公元伟，筑埭于它山，以分流注入江河，从洞到埭，不下三数里。水色蔚蓝，素砂白石，粼粼见底。清寒甘滑，甲于郡中。我惭愧不能做浮家泛宅之人，送老于此。每一次临泛，浃旬忘返，携茗就烹，珍鲜特甚。确实是源泉之最胜，瓯牺之上味矣。因为偏僻在海角，图经遗漏，所以又有新的记载未曾听闻。陆羽的评判莫及，遂不得与谷帘诸泉并列，譬如飞遁吉人，灭影贞士，直将逃名世外，亦且永托知稀矣。（出自《茶笺》）
山泉稍远，接竹引之，承之以奇石，贮之以净缸，其声琮琮可爱，移水取石子，虽养其味……
甘泉旋汲，用之斯良。丙舍在城，夫岂易得。故宜多汲，贮以大瓮，但忌新器，为其火气未退易于败水，亦易生虫，久用则善。最嫌他用，水性忌木，松杉为甚，木桶贮水，其害滋甚，挈瓶为佳耳。（出自《茶疏》）
烹茶须甘泉，次梅水。梅雨如膏，万物赖以滋养，其味独甘，梅后便不堪饮。大瓮满贮，投伏龙肝一块，即灶中心赤土也，乘热收之。（出自《茶解》）
烹茶水之功居六，无泉则用天水，秋雨为上，梅雨次之。秋雨冽而白，梅雨醇而白；雪水五谷之精也，但色不能白；养水须置石子于瓮，不唯益水，而白石清泉，会心亦不在远。壬寅腊八，过南屏，僧碧婆煮茶，不拘老嫩，皆可人口。又不在茶具，虽饭镬中，亦称其旨，时与之游，遂成茶癖。每令长须远汲虎跑泉，葛仙翁井，或索友人携来惠山泉水，以茶之妙在水发也。每值梅雨，托布承接，或荷叶，或磁盘，或以锡作板，溜积瓮中，试烹……都有雾气，远不及泉水之清且洁也。一日偶取所蓄梅雨，见孑孓乌虫数十百，跳跃碗内，遂……都好，但未可就用，须置器日久，俟其色变虫去，色香味始妙，不似山泉但可留数日，久即味变也。此后不烦远役奴子，亦不颛取梅雨，唯待久雨时，向急溜中，大缸承贮。月余后，
(Shennong's Classic of Food)
[Flavor and Nature] Bitter, sweet, slightly cold in nature, non-toxic.
[Indications] Mainly pleases the mind and enhances strength, reduces the need for sleep, relieves thirst, promotes urination, clears phlegm-heat, and treats sores.
Bitter Tea (Hua Tuo's Classic of Food)
Bitter tea, when consumed over a long period, benefits thought and intention.
Tea (Lu Yu's Biography of Tea)
The utility of tea lies in its extremely cold flavor; as a beverage, it is most suitable for people of refined conduct and frugal virtue. If one suffers from heat-thirst, stagnation, and oppression, headache, dry eyes, limb restlessness, and general joint discomfort, drinking four or five sips can rival the effects of butter essence (Tihu) and sweet dew (Ganlu).
[Verification] Says: Tea is highly esteemed by the world. Although I, Lu Zhiyi, have not fully mastered its taste, I cannot remain indifferent to it. Whenever I read books on tea treatment, there are no fewer than dozens, all recorded in manuscripts, making it difficult to compile and verify them collectively. Presuming to record them item by item here for broad collection. It is said that before Shennong there was the *Classic of Food*, which is respected as the first text. Lu Yu's *Classic of Tea* should be treated as a biography according to the format. Subsequent books successively provided commentaries and annotations. The biography part is not arbitrarily added to or subtracted from; the rest selects only the profound and elegant parts. Each author exerts their own influence without following others. One establishes a meaning while another explains it; A poses a difficulty while B refutes it. Strange and orthodox elements coexist, much like the *Spring and Autumn Annals* serving as the classic, with the *Zuo Zhuan* recording history, and the *Gongyang* and *Guliang* commentaries being judged by works like *Chunqiu Fanlu*. Finally, occasional comments are made. Though unskilled, I dare not decline. However, books value concise and appropriate writing over ornate rhetoric, and I have no leisure to discuss the excellence of utensils or the value of appreciation. Generally, those containing essence and blooming flowers, seeking wonders and mysteries, amount to sixteen chapters in this compilation, covering all matters regarding tea.
I. Tracing the Source
Tea is a fine tree of the South. Its tree resembles *Gualu*, leaves resemble gardenia, flowers resemble white roses, fruits resemble palm nuts, stamens resemble lilacs, and roots resemble walnuts. Its names are: one is Cha, two is She, three is Chuan, four is Ming, five is Cha. In the Shan Nan region, Shanzhou produces the best, followed by Xiangzhou and Jingzhou. South of Hengshan, Guangzhou is best, followed by Yiyang Commandery and Shanzhou; Shouzhou is inferior, and Qizhou and Huangzhou are even lower. In the Zhejiang West region, Huzhou is best, followed by Changzhou; Xuanzhou, Mozhou, and Shenzhou are inferior, and Runzhou and Suzhou are even lower. In the Jiannan region, Pengzhou is best, followed by Mianzhou, Shuzhou, and Qiongzhou; Yazhou and Luzhou are inferior, and Meizhou and Hanzhou are even lower. In the Zhejiang East region, Yuezhou is best, followed by Mingzhou; Taizhou is inferior. Tea grows in Enzhou, Bozhou, Feizhou, and Yizhou in Qian; Ezhou, Yuanzhou, and Jizhou in Jiangnan; Jianzhou, Fuzhou, Shaozhou, and Xiangzhou in Lingnan. The conditions of these eleven prefectures—En, Bo, Fei, Yi, Ez, Yuan, Ji, Jian, Fu, Shao, Xiang—are unknown. Often obtained, their taste is excellent. (From Lu Yu's *Biography of Tea*; Lu Yu, courtesy name Hongjian, also named Ji, courtesy name Jici, pseudonym Sangzhu Weng) According to Tang dynasty records, tea-producing areas were merely as described by Jici. Today, places like Huqiu, Luojie, Tianchi, Guzhu, Songluo, Longjing, Yandang, and Wuyi produce tea, but cultivation is poor, or picking and processing are rough. (From Luo Lin's *Tea Solution*; Luo Lin, courtesy name Gaojun) In the valleys between Wu and Chu, the air is clear and the land spiritual, with grass and trees standing tall, mostly nurturing fine tea. Generally, Wuyi's "White Milk" is superior; Wuxing's "Purple Bamboo Shoots" are ranked first. Tea produced near Yuxue becomes famous through Tianzhang Temple; tea from Maoqiantang is rare due to Jingshan. As for Xuluzhi Rock, Yunheng Foot, Ya Mountain known in Wusheng, Mengding transmitted in Minshu, they stand independently with slight advantages, numerous in detail. (From Ye Qingchen's *Boiling Tea Spring Products*) Tang people first praised Yangxian tea, Song people valued Jianzhou tea most. Currently, tribute tea comes mostly from these two places, but Yangxian has only its name, and Jianzhou is not top grade; only Wuyi Pre-Rain tea is best. Recently favored is Changxing's Luojie tea, suspected to be ancient Guzhu Purple Bamboo Shoots. However, Luojie has several locations, now only Dongshan tea is most valued. Yao Bodao said: "In the Moonlight Gorge, there is fine tea, with remote charm and sweet fragrance, worthy of being called immortal product." Guzhu also has good tea, now called Shuikou tea, completely different from Luojie. If Shexian's Songluo, Wuzhou's Huqiu, Hangzhou's Longjing, they can rival Luojie. Guo Cifu highly praised Huangshan tea; Huangshan is also in Shexian, far from Songluo. Previously, scholars valued Tianchi tea, but drinking too much causes bloating. Zhejiang produces Yandang, Dapan, Jinhua, Rizu, all comparable to Wuyi. Qiantang mountains produce much tea; South Hill is good, North Hill is slightly inferior. Besides Wuyi, Quanzhou's Qingyuan tea, if made by skilled hands, rivals Wuyi, but unfortunately often scorched and dry, disappointing. Chu produces Baoqing tea, Dian produces Wuhua tea, both famous, above Yan tea. Other famous mountains' production is likely more, perhaps unknown to me or not yet famous, thus not discussed. (From Xu Chizhu's *Tea Manual*; Xu Chizhu, courtesy name Ranming)
[Commentary] Says: In the past, people compared Lu Yu drinking tea to Houji planting grain, truly so. Seeing Han Yu's "Letter Thanking for Bestowed Tea" saying: "The King of Wu honored the wise, then heard of setting up tea; Jin people loved guests, then had divided tea," we know the credit for creation did not start with Sangzhu (Lu Yu), but tea processing became complete starting from Jici. Since then, products from famous mountains, spiritual herbs gradually multiplied, human skill improved, fine tea became daily renowned, all following Jici as the standard, so he can be called the ancestor of the mountain school. Cai Junmo and others below are lamp-transmitting scholars. Also said: Tea belongs to human post-natal life, like clothing reporting to the body. Perhaps earth spirit gathers elegance, or what was produced in ancient times is no longer taken today, saying ice soil moves frequently, mountain and river natures change, where does spirit come from, where does elegance rise, human dependent retribution, how can it remain constant? People suffer from not thinking of the root. Above traces the source.
II. Obtaining the Land
Top grade grows in rotten stone soil, medium grade in gravel soil, bottom grade in yellow earth. Wild is superior to garden-grown. Yin slopes and valley areas are unsuitable for picking and drinking. (From *Biography of Tea*) In tea-producing areas, the sunset side of the mountain is better than the sunrise side; Miaohou Mountain faces west, hence called good, but generally not as good as Dongshan facing south, receiving special yang energy, called immortal product. (From Xiong Mingdao's *Jieshan Tea Record*) Tea land facing south is good, facing yin is inferior. Thus within one mountain, beauty and ugliness differ greatly. (From *Tea Solution*) Tea produced in flat lands receives much earth qi, so its quality is turbid; tea produced in high mountains is entirely wind and dew clear void qi, so it is commendable. (From *Jieshan Tea Record*) Tea certainly should not be mixed with evil trees, only osmanthus, plum, magnolia, rose, green pine, emerald bamboo, planted among them, enough to cover frost and snow, reflect autumn sun; underneath can plant fragrant orchids, quiet chrysanthemums, pure fragrance things, most taboo vegetable plots pressing close, inevitably seeping, damaging its true purity. (From *Tea Solution*)
[Commentary] Says: Governing the world, examine its soil suitability; vast valleys and great rivers have different systems, humans living among them have different forms; barren land people are sparse, fertile land people are dense; hard... all imitate their shapes, know benefits and harms, reach desires, determine mountains and rivers, divide boundaries, list products, distinguish tribute, this is obtaining the land. Humans are so, let alone tea.
III. Riding the Time
Picking tea is between February, March, April. Tea shoots grow in rotten stone fertile soil, four or five cun long, like ferns just sprouting, picked with dew. Qingming is too early, Lixia is too late, Guyu前后 (around Grain Rain) time is appropriate. If delayed one or two days, waiting for its energy to be full, fragrance fierce doubled, easy to store. (From *Tea Manual*)
Tea is best before the first rain after emerging. Only Luojie tea opens gardens at Lixia, prized in Wu area, stems and leaves thick, having Xiaoruo air, still six or seven days before summer, like sparrow tongues are best, slice tea is also good. (From *Jie Tea Record*)
Not before summer not picked, first picking called opening garden; picking from mid-summer called spring tea. Its land is slightly cold, so must get this, also should not blame it for being too late. Previously no autumn picking, recently there is, July-August pick again, called early spring, its grade very good. Not minding small thinness, other mountains seeking profit, pick many Mei tea. Mei tea is bitter and astringent, and harms autumn picking, good production warns against it. (From *Tea Manual*)
Shuangjing and Tianmu tea, after Lixia, before Xiaoman, pick only once, absolutely no more picking. Only feed on rain and dew, strictly forbid fertilizing soil, so stored for years. Color, smell, taste turn better, dew without clouds. Picking timing, sunny day harmonious; next picking timing, accumulated rain heavy yin, do not know if acceptable. (From *Tea Saying*)
[Commentary] Says: Time cannot be violated, timing cannot be lost, is Sangzhu Weng the sage of mean-time? Thousand years later, picking and processing periods, no one can exceed his time, Luo Gaojun rarely changes, more experiencing mountain and river cold and warm, observing grass and tree holding and releasing, waiting for time to rise, responding to time to start, not working falsely, not harming material power.
IV. Measuring Processing
If rainy day do not pick, if cloudy sunny day do not pick. Pick on sunny day, steam it, pound it, pat it, bake it, thread it, seal it, tea is dry. (From *Biography of Tea*)
Cut tea with fingernail, not finger, with nail then fast cut not soft, with finger then much wet easily damaged. (From Song Zi'an's *Dongpo Testing Tea Record*)
When tea first picked, aroma not penetrated, must borrow fire power to emit its aroma. But tea nature not enduring labor, frying not suitable long, take much into pan, then hand force uneven, long in pan overheated, then aroma scatters. Frying pan, most dislike new iron, must pre-select one pan, do not use for other purposes. Frying firewood, only bark, do not use dry leaves. Dry then fire power fierce, leaf then easy flame easy extinguish. Pan must grind wash clean, pick and fry immediately. One pan inside, only use four liang, first use gentle fire fry, then add strong fire urge it. Hand add wooden finger, quickly scoop turn, with half-cooked as degree, slightly wait aroma emit, this is timing. (From *Tea Manual*)
Tea first picked, must pick away branch stem old leaf, only take tender leaf, also must remove tip and handle and vein, fear it easily scorched, this is Songluo method. Frying time must one person from beside fan it, to dispel hot air, otherwise yellow color, smell taste both reduce. I personally tested, fanned color emerald, unfanned color yellow. Fry out of pan, place in large ceramic plate, still must urgent fan, let hot air retreat, by hand heavy knead it, again scatter into pan, gentle fire fry dry, enter baking, cover knead then its juice floats up, point time smell taste easy out. Tian Zilong believes raw sun-dried not fried not kneaded is best. Occasionally tried, only makes hot soup, and day腥味 grass smell, specially no good charm. (From Wen Long's *Tea Notebook*; Wen Long, courtesy name Yinlin, originally courtesy name Zhongda)
Fire fierce aroma clear, pan cold spirit tired; fire fierce generate scorched, wood sparse lose emerald; long delay then overcooked, quick rise yet return raw; cooked then offend yellow, raw then attach green.
Classic says bake, dig pool deep two chi, wide one chi five cun, long one zhang. Above make short wall, high two chi, mud with wood, construct on bake. Weave wood two layers, high one chi to bake tea. Tea half dry, lift down shelf, fully dry lift up shelf. Foolish say modern people not necessarily fully use this method, I once construct small bake room, high not exceed xun, square not reach zhang, longitudinal width equal, four sides and top, cotton paper densely paste, no small gap. Place three or four fire jars inside, install new bamboo sieve on jar inside, pre-wash new hemp cloth piece to line it, scatter fried tea on sieve, close door and bake, above direction not cover cover tea. Leaf still moist, one cover then air stuffy yellow, must bake two or three hours, wait moist air finish, then cover with bamboo basket, bake extremely dry, out jar wait cool, enter vessel store. Later bake, also use this method. Color smell and taste, not cause too reduce. (From *Tea Notebook*)
Tea's wonder, lies in beginning make's refinement, store's getting method, point's getting appropriateness. Superior inferior determined by initial pan, clear turbid depends on end fire. (From *Tea Record*)
All famous teas, methods mostly use frying. Only Luo jie specializes in steaming and baking, taste truly蕴藉 (restrained/contained), world competes to treasure it. Even Guzhu Yangxian, close to Dongshan, no longer imitates this. Think this method particularly suitable for Luo jie, cannot generally apply to other teas. And classic already says steam it bake it, then source from far. (From *Tea Notebook*) Must get color complete, only must use fan, must fully smell taste, at time bake fry, this make tea's standard, pass tea's robe. (From *Ming Ji*)
[Commentary] Says: Tracing source, obtaining land, riding time, exhaust thing's nature. Measuring processing losing rhythm, still same as grass mustard. Can exhaust person's nature, then can exhaust thing's nature.
V. Storing Tea
Nurture made of wood, weave with bamboo, paste with paper, inside has nanmu, above has cover, below has bed, beside has door, cover one fan, one vessel stores tea.
Storing tea likes rattan leaf but fears fragrance, tea likes warm dry but fears cold damp. Storing time first use green rattan, weave with bamboo silk, place around jar, bake tea wait cool, store in vessel, with raw charcoal fire roast pass, scorching sun expose let extinguish, randomly insert tea middle, seal jar mouth, cover with new brick, place high bright near person place, moldy weather rain occasion, strictly avoid open cover. Take use must on sunny bright time, take small amount, separately store small bottle, empty place, immediately fill with rattan, seal place as before, then can be long-lasting. Or after Summer Solstice bake once, or after Autumn Equinox bake once. (From *Jieshan Tea Record*)
Strictly avoid facing wind near fire, facing wind easily cold, near fire first yellow. (From *Tea Record*)
All storing tea vessels, always store tea, not allowed move to other use. (From *Tea Solution*)
Wu people extremely value Luo jie tea, often mix with yellow black rattan, big is lack matter. I every store tea, must let Qiaoqing, enter mountain pick bamboo arrow rattan, wipe clean dry, protect jar four sides, half use cut碎, mix into tea middle, year after open cover, emerald like new. (From *Tea Notebook*)
Place place, must be always sit lie place, approach human breath, then constant temperature not cold. Must be board house, not suitable earth room; board house dry, earth room easy steam; also want ventilate, do not place hidden place, especially easy steam damp. (From *Tea Record*)
Luo Sheng says tea wine two matters, until today can call exquisite absolute, before no ancients, only can with deeply know person speak. Tea wine surpass previous generation rare essence...
[Commentary] Says: Treating tea like founding enterprise, storing tea like guarding enterprise. Founding easy, guarding hard. Guarding hard, again not like using person harder. Like protecting infant, minute prevent.
VI. Tasting Springs
Mountain water top, river water middle, well water bottom. Mountain water choose milk spring, stone pool, slow flow top, its waterfall surge rapid wash do not eat, long eat make person have neck...
Guide flow to drain its evil, make new spring trickle pour it. River water, take go person far place. (From *Biography of Tea*)
Mountain spreads qi to nourish ten thousand things, qi spreads then pulse long, so say mountain water top; spring not difficult on clear, but difficult on cold, its rapid flow swift and clear, rock...
River, is public water. Many waters enter together. Water together then taste mixed, so say river water second; water take go person far place, because go person far, then...
I few get Wen Shi wrote *Tea Saying*, try test its water spring items, have twenty. Meet west go Ba Gorge, pass Toad Cave, north rest Wucheng, draw Shugang well, east travel former capital, cross Yangzi River, stay Danyang, sip Guanyin Spring, pass Wuxi, draw Huishan spring water, powder spear end flag, Su lan firewood gui, both tripod both pot, to drink to sip, no not boil qi cleanse thought, remove disease analyze hangover, remove base stingy generate heart, invite spirit god and return view, truly thing class get appropriate, odor smell so sense, secluded person's good esteem, former sage's fine appraisal unreachable. (From *Boiling Tea Spring Products*)
Mountain top spring clear and light, mountain bottom spring clear and heavy. Stone middle spring clear and sweet, sand middle spring clear and cold. Earth middle spring clear and white, flow in yellow stone...
Mountain thick then spring thick, mountain strange then spring strange; mountain clear then spring clear, mountain secluded then spring secluded, all good products. Not thick then thin, not strange then stupid; not...
Spring not sweet, then damage tea taste. Former generation discuss water grade by this. (From Cai Xiang's *Tea Spectrum*; Cai Xiang, courtesy name Junmo)
My hometown four borders all mountains, spring water everywhere. But all pale not sweet, only so-called Ta spring. Its source come out Siming Chan Yuan Cave, pass Da Lan Xiao Jiao all famous peaks, winding stream hundred folds, secluded ravine thousand branches, along return spread, not abandon day night. Tang Yin County Magistrate Wang Gong Yuanwei, build dam at Ta Shan, to divide note rivers, from cave to dam, not down three number li. Water color azure, white sand white stone, shimmering see bottom. Clear cold sweet smooth, first in commandery. I ashamed not able to float family roam house, send old at here. Every arrive float, ten days forget return, carry tea just cook, precious fresh specially very. Truly spring source's best win, Ou Xi upper flavor. Because remote at sea corner, map classic leak, so again new of record net hear. Jici's spoon cannot reach, thus not able with Gulian all springs rank, compare like fly escape lucky person, extinguish shadow virtuous scholar, directly will escape fame world outside, also will forever entrust know rare. (From *Tea Notebook*)
Mountain spring slightly far, connect bamboo lead it, receive with strange stone, store with clean vat, its sound congcong lovely, move water take stone, although nourish its taste...
Sweet spring spin draw, use of then good. Bing she in city, how easy get. So should many draw, store with large urn, but dislike new vessel, for its fire qi not retreat easy damage water, also easy generate insect, long use then good. Most dislike other use, water nature fear wood, pine fir especially, wood bucket store water, its harm breed especially, carry bottle best. (From *Tea Manual*)
Boil tea must sweet spring, second plum rain. Plum rain like paste, ten thousand things rely on nourish, its taste only sweet, plum after then not bear drink. Large urn full store, throw Fulonggan one piece, that stove center red earth also, ride heat collect. (From *Tea Solution*)
Boil water work merit occupy six, no spring then use heaven water, autumn rain top, plum rain second. Autumn rain cold and white, plum rain mellow and white; snow water five grain essence also, but color cannot white; nourish water must place stone in urn, not only benefit water, and white stone clear spring, meeting heart also not in far. Renyin Laba, pass Nanping, monk Bi Po boil tea, not拘 old tender, all can enter mouth. Also not in tea utensils, although rice pan middle, also praise its taste, time with him wander, thus become tea addiction. Every order long beard far draw Tiger Run Spring, Ge Xian Weng Well, or ask friend bring Huishan spring water, because tea's wonder in water develop. Every meet plum rain, hold cloth receive, or lotus leaf, or disk plate, or tin make board, slide accumulate urn middle, test boil... all have mist, far不及 spring water's clear and clean also. One day accidentally take stored plum rain, see mosquito larvae black insects dozens hundred, jump bowl inside, thus... all good, but not can just use, must place vessel long time, wait its color change insect go, color smell taste begin wonderful, not like spring water only can leave several days, long then taste change. After this not trouble far serve slave son, also not exclusively take plum rain, only wait long rain time, toward rapid flow middle, large vat receive store. Month plus later,