乃菱中一种小者,只两角,临平湖一带多产之。出嘉兴者,名馄饨青,以其似馄饨也,
较他
菱体小味甘。沙角较馄饨菱尤小,色红,味甘异常。
味甘平,大补脾土,不滞气。馄饨青性寒,生食解积暑烦热,生津;煮食健脾和胃益气。
(花镜云∶迟熟而甘肥者,名馄饨菱。药性考∶馄饨沙角生熟俱得,老则甘香,补中益气,
生
出广东。今果肆皆有市者,皮黄黑色,肉白,有文层叠如海螵蛸状,酒筵中以为豆笾食
品。
纲目集解下云∶乌榄青黑,肉烂而甘,取肉捶碎放干,自有霜如白盐,谓之榄酱。其子
仁肥
大,名榄仁。而主治所载,悉言白榄,即今常食之青果。又所载榄仁治吻燥者,亦指青果核
中仁而言,非指乌榄仁也,今采岭南果录中补其遗。按粤志木语∶橄榄有青、乌二种,闽人
以白者名青果,粤中只名白榄,不曰青果也。白榄利微,人少种焉。乌榄下番禺诸乡皆种之
,种至二年,其秧长八、九尺,必 之乃结实, 至三年而子小收,十年而大收矣。其树本
高而端直,多独干,至顶乃布枝柯,有雌有雄,雄为主,雌为客,犹妇之归于夫也。予如枣
大,长寸许,光无棱瓣,先生者下同,后生者上向,八、九月熟,梯子击以长竿;或刻其干
东寸许,纳以红盐,则其干东子落,刻其干西或南北亦然,古诗所云纷纷青子落红盐也。乌
榄子大肉浓,其性温,故味涩甘。以温水泡软,俟紫脂浮起溢出,乃可食,水冷则生胶,热
则肌肤反实,故必温水之和,乃醇其性,亦有婉谏之道焉。总二榄论之,白榄雄而乌榄雌,
白属阳而乌属阴,阳故色白而行气,阴故色红而补血。惟乌者阴,故有仁可食;白者阳,故
仁小而不成,此其别也。
仁味甘淡,润肺下气补血,杀诸鱼毒。
这是菱角中一种较小的品种,只有两个角,在临平湖一带多产。出产于嘉兴的,名叫“馄饨青”,因为它形状像馄饨,比其他菱角体型小但味道甘甜。“沙角”比“馄饨菱”更小,颜色发红,味道异常甘甜。
(沙角)味甘、性平,大补脾土之气,且不会导致气机阻滞。“馄饨青”性寒,生吃可以解除积暑引起的烦热,生津液;煮熟吃则能健脾和胃、益气。
(《花镜》记载:晚熟且甘肥的,名叫“馄饨菱”。《药性考》记载:“馄饨”和“沙角”生吃熟吃都可以,老熟后甘香,能补中益气。)
(乌榄仁)产自广东。现在水果店都有售卖,其皮呈黄黑色,肉白色,纹理层叠如海螵蛸(乌贼骨)状,在酒席上作为豆类和果品类的食物。
《本草纲目·集解》下部记载:乌榄青色发黑,肉质软烂而甘甜,取肉捣碎晒干,自然会有白霜如盐般析出,称为“榄酱”。它的子仁肥大,名叫“榄仁”。但书中主治部分所记载的,全是指“白榄”,即今天常吃的“青果”。另外书中记载榄仁治疗口唇干燥,也是指青果核中的仁而言,并非指乌榄仁。如今采录岭南果谱以补充这一遗漏。据《粤志·木语》记载:橄榄有青、乌两种,闽地人把白色的叫作“青果”,粤地只叫“白榄”,不叫“青果”。白榄功效微弱,人们很少种植。乌榄在下番禺各乡都种植,种植两年后,秧苗长到八九尺高,必须经过嫁接才能结果,到第三年小收,十年后大收。这棵树干高大端正,多为独干,直到顶端才分布枝柯,有雌雄之分,雄树为主,雌树为客,就像妇女归于丈夫一样。(果实)像枣一样大,长约一寸,光滑无棱瓣,先结的果实朝下,后结的朝上,八九月成熟,用梯子架起长竿击打;或者在树干东侧刻痕约一寸深,填入红盐,则东侧的果实会掉落,在树干西侧或南北侧刻痕也是如此,古诗所说的“纷纷青子落红盐”即是此意。乌榄子大肉厚,其性温,所以味道涩中带甘。用温水泡软,等到紫色油脂浮起溢出,才可以食用,水冷则产生胶质,水热则果肉反而变硬,所以必须用温水调和,才能醇厚其性质,这其中也有婉转劝谏的道理。总括两种橄榄来说,白榄属雄,乌榄属雌;白属阳,乌属阴。阳故色白而行气,阴故色红而补血。因为只有乌是阴,所以有可食用的仁;白是阳,所以仁小而不成形,这是它们的区别。
This is a smaller variety of water caltrop (Trapa natans), possessing only two horns, and it is abundantly produced in the area around Linping Lake. Those originating from Jiaxing are named "Huntun Qing" (Wonton Green) due to their resemblance to wontons; compared to other water caltrops, they are smaller in size but sweeter in taste. "Shajiao" (Sand Horn) is even smaller than "Huntun Ling," with a reddish color and an exceptionally sweet flavor.
Its taste is sweet and its nature is neutral; it greatly tonifies Spleen Earth Qi without causing Qi stagnation. "Huntun Qing" has a cold nature; when eaten raw, it resolves accumulated summer-heat and irritability, generating body fluids; when cooked, it strengthens the Spleen, harmonizes the Stomach, and benefits Qi.
(The book *Huajing* states: The late-maturing and plump-sweet variety is named "Huntun Ling." The *Yaoxing Kao* [Examination of Medicinal Properties] states: Both "Huntun" and "Shajiao" can be consumed raw or cooked; when mature, they are sweet and fragrant, tonifying the Middle Jiao and benefiting Qi.)
(Black Olive Kernel) originates from Guangdong. It is now commonly sold in fruit shops; its skin is yellowish-black, the flesh is white, and the texture features layered patterns resembling that of Sepia (Cuttlebone). It is served as a vegetable or fruit dish during banquets.
The *Jijie* (Collected Explanations) section of the *Bencao Gangmu* [Compendium of Materia Medica] states: Black olives are dark greenish-black, with soft and sweet flesh. When the flesh is taken, pounded, and dried, a white frost naturally forms like salt, known as "Olive Paste." Its kernels are large and fat, named "Lanren" (Olive Kernel). However, the therapeutic indications recorded therein all refer to "White Olives," which are the "Qingguo" (Green Fruit) commonly eaten today. Furthermore, the record stating that olive kernels treat dry lips refers to the kernel within the seed of the Qingguo, not to the Black Olive Kernel. This omission is now supplemented by records from Lingnan fruit catalogs. According to the *Muyu* [Talks on Trees] section of the *Yuezhi* [Records of Yue]: There are two types of olives: green and black. People in Fujian call the white ones "Qingguo," whereas in Guangdong, they are only called "Bailan" (White Olive), not "Qingguo." White olives have mild efficacy, so people rarely cultivate them. Black olives are cultivated in various townships under Panyu. Two years after planting, the saplings grow to eight or nine chi in height; grafting is required for them to bear fruit. A small harvest occurs in the third year, and a large harvest in the tenth year. The tree trunk is tall and straight, mostly single-stemmed, branching out only at the top. There are male and female trees; the male serves as the main stock, and the female as the scion, analogous to a wife joining her husband's family. The fruit is about the size of a date, approximately one cun long, smooth without ridges or lobes. Fruits formed first hang downwards, while those formed later face upwards. They ripen in the eighth and ninth lunar months and are harvested using long poles from ladders. Alternatively, incisions about one cun deep are made on the east side of the trunk, filled with red salt, causing fruits on that side to drop; the same applies to the west, north, or south sides. This corresponds to the ancient poetic line: "Numerous green fruits fall upon red salt." Black olive seeds are large with thick flesh; their nature is warm, resulting in a taste that is astringent yet sweet. Soak them in warm water until soft; once the purple oil floats up and overflows, they are ready to eat. If the water is too cold, gum-like substances form; if too hot, the flesh becomes tough. Therefore, warm water must be used to harmonize and mellow their nature, embodying a principle of gentle admonition. Summarizing both types: White olives are male, black olives are female; white belongs to Yang, black to Yin. Yang thus manifests as white color and promotes Qi movement; Yin thus manifests as red/dark color and nourishes Blood. Because black is Yin, it possesses edible kernels; because white is Yang, its kernels are small and undeveloped. This is their distinction.
The kernel tastes sweet and bland; it moistens the Lungs, directs Qi downward, nourishes Blood, and detoxifies various fish poisons.