食物虽为养人之具。然亦于人脏腑有宜不宜。盖物有寒有热。犹人脏腑有阴有阳。脏阳
而不
得平性寒之物以为之协。则脏其益阳矣。脏阴而不得乎性热之物以为之济。则脏其益阴矣。
脏有阴阳兼见之症。而不得乎不寒不热之物以为调剂。则脏其益互杂而不平矣。昔孔子观颐
之象。而曰君子以慎言语。节饮食。则知食即于身有裨。而亦有乎当节之理以为之寓。矧于
食物之中。尚有宜此宜彼之别。而可不为之考究于其中者乎?奈人惟知以口是甘。以腹是果
。而不计乎食之入口。等于药之治病同为一理。合则于人脏腑有益。而可却病卫生。不合则
于人脏腑有损。而即增病促死。此食物所以见论于方书而与药物而并传也。惟是食物之种。
不下数百。姑节日用常食之物以为辨别。如谷食之有面曲蚕豆豆油酒醋。是谷之至温者也。
若至芦稷稻米粳米陈仓米黑豆黄豆白豆豌豆豇豆胡麻。则稍平矣。又至粟米黍稷荞麦绿豆豆
腐豆豉豆酱。则性最寒而不温矣。此谷食之有分其寒热也。又如瓜菜之有姜蒜葱韭芹菜胡荽
茼蒿白芥胡萝 。是性之温而不寒者也。若至山药蕹菜匏瓠南瓜。岂得谓之不平乎?又至菘
菜苋菜油菜菠 苦菜 菜白苣莴苣胡瓜苦瓜越瓜甜瓜丝瓜冬瓜西瓜酱瓜诸笋芋子茄子。岂得
谓之不寒乎?此瓜菜又有分其寒热也。至于果品。则如龙眼荔枝大枣饴糖沙糖白糖莲肉葡萄
蜂蜜胡桃肉杨梅木瓜橄榄青桃李子栗子。是为至温之性矣。榧实黄精枇杷青梅花生。是为至
平之性矣。梨子菱角莲藕橘瓤乌芋百合甘蔗白果柿干柿霜。是为至寒之性矣。但生李性温。
则
多生痰而助湿。生桃性燥。则多助热而助毒。此果品之有分其寒热也。若在木类石类。则性
之温而热者。无若川椒胡椒。性之平者。无若香蕈。性之寒者。无若木耳蘑菇食盐茶叶。是
木类石类之有分其寒热也。以物禽兽论之。如鸡肉鸭肉山雉鹧鸪犬肉羊肉牛肉鹿肉鹿筋猫肉
。是至温矣。鸽肉燕窝斑鸠雁肉鹅肉凫肉竹鸡猪肉。是至平矣。兔肉麋肉麋筋。是至寒矣。
但山雉鸡肉鹧鸪。性虽温而不免有发风发毒之害。猪肉性即平。而不免有多食动痰之虞。此
禽兽之有分其寒热也。他如鱼鳖龟介虫类。其在鲫鱼鲢鱼鲥鱼鲩鱼 鱼鲦鱼海虾鳝鱼。是皆
温之属也。鲤鱼鳜鱼白鱼青鱼鲨鱼鲛鱼鲍鱼鳅鱼纸鱼乌贼鱼蛏肉。是皆平之属也。鳢鱼鳗鲡
石斑鱼海蛇田蛙螃蟹鳖肉龟肉田螺蛤蜊肉。是皆寒之属也。但虾鳝性燥。则不免有动风助火
之变。石斑鳖蟹。性寒有毒。则不免有动气破血之虑。此鱼鳖龟介虫之有分其寒热也。再于
诸味之中。又细分其气辛而荤。则性助火散气。味重而甘。则性助温生痰。体柔而滑。则性
通肠利便。质硬而坚。则物食之不化。烹炼而熟。则物服之气壅。要使等于用药。知其药之
温凉寒热。合于人之病症虚实。是否相符。则于养生之道始得。且胜于药多多矣。荀不此为
审顾。而但知服药味。食物日与药反。以至于死而不觉。且或归咎于医。是果谁之咎也乎?
噫。谬矣!
食物虽然是滋养人体的工具,但对于人的脏腑来说,也有适宜和不适宜的区别。因为物品有寒性和热性之分,就像人的脏腑有阴和阳的区别一样。如果脏气属阳,却得不到性寒的物品来调和,那么脏气就会更加偏盛于阳。如果脏气属阴,却得不到性热的物品来资助,那么脏气就会更加偏盛于阴。如果脏腑出现阴阳兼见的症状,却得不到不寒不热的物品来进行调剂,那么脏腑就会更加杂乱失衡。从前孔子观察“颐”卦的卦象,说君子应当谨慎言语、节制饮食,这就知道饮食对身体虽有裨益,但也包含应当节制的道理。况且在食物之中,还有适合此人和适合彼人的区别,难道可以不加以考究吗?无奈人们只知道嘴巴觉得甘甜,肚子觉得饱足,而不考虑食物入口的道理与药物治病是一样的:相合则对脏腑有益,可以祛病养生;不合则对脏腑有害,反而增加疾病、加速死亡。这就是食物之所以在医方书籍中被论述,并与药物一同流传的原因。
只是食物的种类不下数百种,姑且选取日常常用的食物来进行辨别。比如谷物类中的面曲、蚕豆、豆油、酒、醋,是性质最温热的。至于芦稷、稻米、粳米、陈仓米、黑豆、黄豆、白豆、豌豆、豇豆、胡麻,性质就稍微平和一些。再至于粟米、黍稷、荞麦、绿豆、豆腐、豆豉、豆酱,性质就最寒凉而不温热了。这是谷物类中区分寒热的情况。又如瓜果蔬菜类中的姜、蒜、葱、韭、芹菜、胡荽、茼蒿、白芥、胡萝卜,是性质温热而不寒凉的。至于山药、蕹菜、匏瓠、南瓜,难道能说它们性质不平吗?再至于菘菜、苋菜、油菜、菠菜、苦菜、莴苣、胡瓜、苦瓜、越瓜、甜瓜、丝瓜、冬瓜、西瓜、酱瓜、各种笋、芋头、茄子,难道能说它们不寒凉吗?这是瓜果蔬菜类中又区分寒热的情况。
至于果品,如龙眼、荔枝、大枣、饴糖、沙糖、白糖、莲肉、葡萄、蜂蜜、胡桃肉、杨梅、木瓜、橄榄、青桃、李子、栗子,是属于性质最温热的。榧实、黄精、枇杷、青梅、花生,是属于性质最平和的。梨子、菱角、莲藕、橘瓤、乌芋、百合、甘蔗、白果、柿干、柿霜,是属于性质最寒凉的。但是生李子的性质虽温,却容易生痰助湿;生桃子的性质燥烈,却容易助热助毒。这是果品中区分寒热的情况。如果在木类和石类中,性质温热而没有比得过川椒、胡椒的;性质平和而没有比得过香蕈的;性质寒凉而没有比得过木耳、蘑菇、食盐、茶叶的。这是木类和石类中区分寒热的情况。
以禽兽类为例,如鸡肉、鸭肉、山雉、鹧鸪、犬肉、羊肉、牛肉、鹿肉、鹿筋、猫肉,属于性质最温热的。鸽肉、燕窝、斑鸠、雁肉、鹅肉、凫肉、竹鸡、猪肉,属于性质最平和的。兔肉、麋肉、麋筋,属于性质最寒凉的。但是山雉、鸡肉、鹧鸪,性质虽然温热,却难免有引发风邪、诱发毒疮的危害;猪肉性质虽然平和,却难免有多食导致生痰的忧虑。这是禽兽类中区分寒热的情况。其他如鱼、鳖、龟、介壳类、虫类,其中鲫鱼、鲢鱼、鲥鱼、鲩鱼、鳙鱼、鲦鱼、海虾、鳝鱼,都属于温热一类。鲤鱼、鳜鱼、白鱼、青鱼、鲨鱼、鲛鱼、鲍鱼、鳅鱼、纸鱼、乌贼鱼、蛏肉,都属于平和一类。鳢鱼、鳗鲡、石斑鱼、海蛇、田蛙、螃蟹、鳖肉、龟肉、田螺、蛤蜊肉,都属于寒凉一类。但是虾、鳝鱼性质燥烈,则不免有动风助火的变证;石斑鱼、鳖、螃蟹性质寒凉且有微毒,则不免有动气破血的顾虑。这是鱼鳖龟介虫类中区分寒热的情况。
再进一步细分各种味道:气味辛烈而荤腥的,其性质会助火散气;味道厚重而甘甜的,其性质会助温生痰;质地柔滑的,其性质能通肠利便;质地坚硬粗糙的,食用后难以消化;经过烹炼煮熟的,服用后容易导致气机壅滞。要使饮食等同于用药,必须了解药物的温凉寒热属性,看其是否与人的病症虚实相符,这样才能掌握养生的道理,这比吃药要好得多。如果不仔细审视这一点,只知服药美味,结果食物每日与药物功效相反,以至于死亡而不自知,甚至归咎于医生,这究竟是谁的过错呢?唉,真是荒谬啊!
Although food serves as a means to nourish the human body, it has its appropriateness and inappropriateness regarding the Zang-Fu organs (Zang-Fu organs). This is because substances possess either Cold or Heat properties, just as human Zang-Fu organs possess Yin or Yang. If the organ's Yang Qi is unbalanced and does not receive Cold-natured substances to harmonize it, the organ's Yang will become excessive. If the organ's Yin is deficient and does not receive Heat-natured substances to support it, the organ's Yin will become excessive. If the Zang-Fu presents symptoms of both Yin and Yang imbalance and does not receive neutral (neither Cold nor Heat) substances for regulation, the Zang-Fu will become further disordered and imbalanced. In the past, Confucius observed the hexagram "Yi" (Nourishment) and stated that the superior person should be cautious in speech and moderate in diet. This indicates that while food benefits the body, there are principles of moderation inherent within it. Moreover, among foods, there are distinctions regarding suitability for different individuals; how can one fail to investigate these? Regrettably, people only know what tastes sweet to the mouth and fills the stomach, without considering that the principle of food entering the mouth is identical to that of medicine treating disease: if compatible, it benefits the Zang-Fu, dispels illness, and preserves health; if incompatible, it damages the Zang-Fu, exacerbates illness, and hastens death. This is why food is discussed in medical texts alongside medicinal herbs.
However, there are hundreds of types of food. Let us briefly distinguish commonly consumed items. Among grains, such as fermented flour starters, broad beans, bean oil, wine, and vinegar, these are of the most Warm nature. Items such as sorghum, rice, japonica rice, aged warehouse rice, black soybeans, yellow soybeans, white beans, peas, cowpeas, and sesame seeds are slightly more Neutral. Items such as millet, broomcorn millet, buckwheat, mung beans, tofu, fermented soybeans, and soybean paste are of the coldest nature and lack warmth. This illustrates the differentiation of Cold and Heat among grains. Similarly, among melons and vegetables, ginger, garlic, scallions, chives, celery, coriander, crown daisy, white mustard, and carrots are of Warm nature and not Cold. What about Chinese yam, water spinach, calabash, pumpkin? Can they be considered unbalanced? Furthermore, cabbage, amaranth, rapeseed, spinach, bitter greens, lettuce, cucumber, bitter melon, winter melon, watermelon, pickled melon, various bamboo shoots, taro, and eggplant—are they not Cold? This shows the differentiation of Cold and Heat among melons and vegetables.
Regarding fruits, longan, lychee, jujube, maltose, brown sugar, white sugar, lotus seeds, grapes, honey, walnut kernels, bayberries, papaya, olives, green peaches, plums, and chestnuts are of the most Warm nature. Torreya seeds, Polygonatum rhizome, loquat, green plums, and peanuts are of the most Neutral nature. Pears, water caltrops, lotus roots, orange pulp, water chestnuts, lily bulbs, sugarcane, ginkgo nuts, dried persimmons, and persimmon frost are of the most Cold nature. However, raw plums, though Warm in nature, tend to generate phlegm and promote dampness; raw peaches, being drying, tend to assist heat and toxicity. This demonstrates the differentiation of Cold and Heat among fruits.
Among trees and stones/minerals, nothing is warmer than Sichuan pepper and black pepper; nothing is more Neutral than edible mushrooms (Tricholoma); nothing is colder than wood ear fungus, button mushroom, table salt, and tea leaves. This illustrates the differentiation of Cold and Heat among trees and minerals.
Regarding poultry and beasts, chicken, duck, pheasant, partridge, dog meat, mutton, beef, deer meat, deer sinew, and cat meat are of the most Warm nature. Pigeon meat, bird's nest, turtledove, wild goose, goose, teal, bamboo partridge, and pork are of the most Neutral nature. Rabbit meat, elk meat, and elk sinew are of the most Cold nature. However, pheasant, chicken, and partridge, although Warm, may inadvertently trigger wind-pathogens or induce sores; pork, although Neutral, carries the risk of generating phlegm if consumed excessively. This shows the differentiation of Cold and Heat among poultry and beasts.
As for fish, turtles, shellfish, and insects: crucian carp, silver carp, hilsa herring, grass carp, bighead carp, minnows, sea shrimp, and eel belong to the Warm category. Common carp, mandarin fish, white fish, black carp, shark, requiem shark, abalone, loach, paper fish, cuttlefish, and razor clams belong to the Neutral category. Snakehead fish, moray eel, grouper, sea snake, field frog, crab, turtle meat, tortoise meat, field snails, and clam meat belong to the Cold category. However, shrimp and eel are drying in nature, potentially causing wind-movement and assisting fire; grouper, turtle, and crab are Cold and toxic, potentially causing qi-dispersion and blood-breaking effects. This illustrates the differentiation of Cold and Heat among aquatic creatures.
Furthermore, within flavors: pungent and strong-smelling foods assist Fire and scatter Qi; heavy and sweet foods assist Warmth and generate Phlegm; soft and slippery foods facilitate bowel movements; hard and tough foods are difficult to digest; cooked and processed foods may cause Qi stagnation. To treat food like medicine, one must understand the Warm, Cool, Cold, and Heat properties of substances and determine if they match the patient's syndrome of Excess or Deficiency. Only then can one master the way of preserving health, which is far superior to taking medicine. If one fails to examine this carefully, merely enjoying the taste of food, resulting in daily dietary habits contradicting medicinal therapy until death occurs unnoticed, and then blaming the physician—whose fault is this? Alas, how absurd!