(十五种 附八种)
素燕窝
一名燕菜蔬。从新云∶出漳泉沿海处有之,乃燕衔小鱼,春垒之窝中,人取之。闽小记
云∶
燕取小鱼,粘之于石,久而成窝,有乌、白、红三色,乌色品最下,红者最难得,能益小儿
痘疹,白色能愈痰疾。泉南杂志∶闽之远海近番处,有燕名金丝者,首尾似燕而甚小,毛如
金丝,临卵育子时,群飞近沙汐泥有石处,啄蚕螺食之。蚕螺背上肉有两筋,如枫蚕丝,坚
洁而白,食之可补虚损,已痢痨症;此燕食之,肉化而筋不化,并津液呕出,结为小窝,附
石上,久之与小雏鼓翼而飞,海人依时拾之,故曰燕窝也。似此则形状功用时候族类,俱有
可信。 岭南杂记∶燕窝有数种,日本以为菜蔬供僧。此乃海燕食海边虫,虫背有筋不化,
复吐出而为窝,缀于海山石壁之上,土人攀援取之,春取者白,夏取者黄,秋冬不可取,取
之则燕无所栖冻死,次年无窝矣。 香祖笔记∶燕窝紫色者尤佳。 崖州志∶崖州海中石岛
有玳瑁山,其洞穴皆燕所巢;燕大者如乌,啖鱼辄吐涎沫,以备冬月退毛之食。土人皮衣皮
帽秉炬探之,燕惊扑人,年老力弱或致坠崖而死,故有多获者,有空手而返者,是为燕窠之
菜。 粤录∶海滨石上有海粉,积结如苔,燕啄食之,吐出为窝,累累岩壁之间,岛人俟其
秋去,以修竿接铲取之。海粉性寒,而为燕所吞吐则暖;海粉味咸,而为燕所吞吐则甘,其
形质尽化,故可以清痰开胃云。凡有乌、白二色,红者难得,盖燕属火,红者尤其精液。一
名燕蔬,以其补草木之不足,故曰蔬。榆肉产于北,燕窝产于南,皆蔬也。 宦游笔记∶燕
窝出南海日本诸国,春间取者色白为上,秋间取者色黄次之。一种微黑而多毛,是拣择所遗
者,价亦不能廉。怯症人久服之,亦能润肺止嗽,功等参苓。 查浦辑闻∶南燕归海外水边
难达,因啄小鱼肉作窝,口衔之而飞,飞倦,即投窝水中,栖止其上,少息,复衔之而飞,
故东南风则飘掠近岸,人就取之。 阮葵生茶余客话∶许青岩(松佶),方伯语予云∶燕窝
产
海岛中,穷岩邃谷,足力绳竿之所不及。估舶养小猿猴,善解人意,至山岛间,以小布囊系
猿背上,纵之往升木深岩,尽剥塞囊中而归。猿之去也,苦不得食,三数日始返,海客以果
饵充囊中,俾之远出不饥,拙者出即剥塞囊中,归而倾囊,不过数片,为果饵占地也;其黠
者将果饵倾岩窦间,剥塞满囊,尽燕窝矣,空而复去,尤为便捷,猿一值数百金,价数倍于
拙者。云∶许谨斋黄门,每晨起食蔗浆、燕窝一巨觥,以融软为度,谓他人皆生食也,终日
不溺。
味甘淡平,大养肺阴,化痰止嗽,补而能清,为调理虚损劳瘵之圣药。一切病之由于肺
虚不
能清肃下行者,用此皆可治之;开胃气,已劳痢,益小儿痘疹,可入煎药,或单煮汁服。
从新云∶今人用以煮粥,或用鸡汁煮之,虽甚可口,然乱其清补之本性,岂能已痰耶;有与
冰糖同煎,则甘壅矣,岂能助肺金清肃下行耶。 物理小识∶燕窝能止小便数。 逢原云∶
甘平无毒。鸟衔海粉作窝,得风日阳和之气,化咸寒为甘平,能使金水相生,肾气上滋于肺
,而胃气亦得以安。食品中之最驯良者,惜乎本草不收,方书罕用。今人以之调补虚劳咳吐
红痰,每兼冰糖煮食,往往获效。然惟病势初浅者为宜,若阴火方盛,血逆上奔,虽用无济
,以其幽柔无刚毅之力耳。 张石顽云∶暴得咳嗽吐血乍止,以冰糖与燕窝菜同煮连服,取
其平补肺胃,而无止截之患也;惟胃中有痰湿者,令人欲呕,以其甜腻恋膈故也。 食物宜
忌云∶壮阳益气,和中开胃,添精补髓,润肺,止久泻,消痰涎。 岭南杂记∶红色者治血
痢;入梨加冰糖蒸食,治膈痰。
何惠川云∶翻胃久吐,有服人乳、多吃燕窝而愈者。
老年痰喘 文堂集验方∶用秋白梨一个(去心),入燕窝一钱(先用滚水泡),再入冰糖
一钱蒸
熟,每日早晨服下,勿间断,神效。
噤口痢 救生苦海∶白燕窝二钱,人参四分,水七分,隔汤顿熟,徐徐食之,立效。
素燕窝 月湖笔薮∶近时素食中盛行一种素燕窝,宁波洋行颇多,形白而细长,空心虚
软,
俨如食铺中 子而细,有七、八寸至尺长不等,望之晶莹,握之轻虚,每三十余枝作一束,
厨人买得,汤沃之即起胀,蕤蕤然凝白类官燕,以入素馔为珍品,食之亦淡而少味,不知何
物造成。或曰,糯粉、山谷为之,何以见沸汤反脆美?或曰,铜铅之苗,产海外深山,食之
可明目。近日始知有用者,不知然否,附记俟考。 北砚食规有制素燕窝法∶先入温水一荡
伸腰,即浸入滚过冷水内,俟作料配菜齐集,另锅制好,笊篱捞出燕窝,将滚汤在笊篱上淋
两三遍,可用,软而不糊,半 用。
解食烟毒。
(十五种,附载八种)
素燕窝
又名燕菜蔬。从新记载说:在漳州、泉州沿海地区出产,是燕子衔来小鱼,在春季垒筑在窝中,人们将其采集。《闽小记》说:
燕子捕捉小鱼,粘附在石头上,时间久了便形成窝巢,有乌色、白色、红色三种,乌色的品质最低,红色的最难得,能有益于小儿的痘疹,白色的能治愈痰疾。《泉南杂志》说:福建远海靠近番邦的地方,有一种名叫金丝的燕子,头尾像燕子但非常小,羽毛像金丝一样,在产卵育雏时,成群飞翔靠近沙泥中有石头的地方,啄食蚕螺吃。蚕螺背上的肉有两根筋,像桑蚕丝一样,坚硬洁白,食用可以补益虚损,治愈痢疾和劳症;这种燕子吃了蚕螺后,肉被消化而筋不消化,连同津液一起呕出,凝结成小窝,附着在石头上,久而久之与小雏一起展翅飞翔,海边人按时拾取,所以叫燕窝。像这样,那么形状、功用、时节、族类,都有可信之处。《岭南杂记》说:燕窝有好几种,日本将其作为蔬菜供奉僧人。这是海燕食用海边的虫子,虫背上有的筋不消化,再吐出来形成窝巢,缀连在海山石壁之上,当地人攀爬绳索采集,春季采集的是白色,夏季采集的是黄色,秋冬不可采集,采集了燕子就没有栖息之地会冻死,第二年就没有窝巢了。《香祖笔记》说:紫色的燕窝尤其好。《崖州志》说:崖州海中的石岛有玳瑁山,其洞穴都是燕子筑巢的地方;燕子大的像乌鸦,吃鱼就吐出涎沫,以备冬天退毛时的食物。当地人穿着皮衣皮帽拿着火把探洞,燕子受惊扑向人,年老力弱的人可能会坠崖而死,所以有的人收获多,有的人空手而归,这就是燕窠之菜。《粤录》说:海滨石头上有海粉,积聚结块像苔藓,燕子啄食它,吐出来形成窝巢,累累挂在岩壁之间,岛民等到它们秋天飞走后,用长竿接铲采集。海粉性寒,经过燕子的吞吐变得温暖;海粉味咸,经过燕子的吞吐变得甘甜,其形质完全变化,所以可以清痰开胃。凡是有乌、白两种颜色,红色的难得,大概因为燕子属火,红色的是它的精液。一名燕蔬,因为它补益草木所不足的,所以叫蔬。榆肉产于北方,燕窝产于南方,都是蔬类。《宦游笔记》说:燕窝出产于南海、日本等国,春季采集的颜色白为上乘,秋季采集的颜色黄次之。一种微黑且多毛的,是拣选剩下的,价格也不能便宜。肺虚怯症的人长期服用,也能润肺止咳,功效等同于人参、茯苓。《查浦辑闻》说:南方的燕子回归海外水边难以到达,因此啄食小鱼肉做窝,口衔着飞行,飞累了,就投入窝水中,栖息在上面,稍作休息,又衔着飞走,所以东南风时会飘掠靠近岸边,人们就去采集。阮葵生《茶余客话》说:许青岩(松佶),方伯告诉我:燕窝产在海岛中,穷尽岩石深邃山谷,脚力和绳竿都达不到。商船饲养小猿猴,善于理解人意,到山岛间,用小布囊系在猿猴背上,放它去攀登树木深岩,全部剥下塞入囊中回来。猿猴离开时,苦于得不到食物,三几天才返回,海客在囊中装满果饵,让它远行不饿,笨拙的猿猴出发就剥下塞入囊中,回来倒出囊中,不过几片,因为果饵占了地方;狡猾的猿猴将果饵倾倒在岩洞间,剥下塞满囊中,全是燕窝,空了再去,尤为便捷,一只猿猴值数百金,价格是笨拙猿猴的数倍。又说:许谨斋黄门,每天早晨起床吃蔗浆、燕窝一大杯,以融化柔软为标准,说别人都是生吃的,整天不排尿。
味甘淡平,大养肺阴,化痰止咳,补益而能清利,是调理虚损劳瘵的圣药。一切由于肺虚不能清肃下行导致的病证,用此都可以治疗;开胃气,治愈劳痢,有益于小儿痘疹,可以加入煎药,或单独煮汁服用。从新说:现在的人用它煮粥,或用鸡汁煮它,虽然很可口,但扰乱了它清补的本性,怎么能治愈痰疾呢?有与冰糖同煎的,就会甘腻壅滞,怎么能帮助肺金清肃下行呢?《物理小识》说:燕窝能止住小便频数。《逢原》说:甘平无毒。鸟衔海粉做窝,得到风和日丽的阳气,将咸寒化为甘平,能使金水相生,肾气上滋于肺,胃气也得以安宁。食品中最温和良善的,可惜本草不收载,方书很少使用。现在的人用它调补虚劳咳吐红痰,常兼加冰糖煮食,往往获得疗效。但这只适合病势初浅者,如果阴火正盛,血逆上奔,虽然使用也无济于事,因为它幽柔没有刚毅的力量罢了。张石顽说:突然患咳嗽吐血刚刚停止,用冰糖与燕窝菜同煮连续服用,取其平补肺胃,而没有止截的祸患;只有胃中有痰湿的人,会让人想呕吐,因为它甜腻恋膈的缘故。《食物宜忌》说:壮阳益气,和中开胃,添精补髓,润肺,止久泻,消痰涎。《岭南杂记》说:红色的治疗血痢;加入梨加冰糖蒸食,治疗膈痰。
何惠川说:翻胃久吐,有服用人乳、多吃燕窝而痊愈的。
老年痰喘 《文堂集验方》:用一个秋白梨(去心),放入燕窝一钱(先用滚水泡开),再放入冰糖一钱蒸熟,每天早晨服用,不要间断,神效。
噤口痢 《救生苦海》:白燕窝二钱,人参四分,水七分,隔水炖熟,慢慢食用,立即见效。
素燕窝 《月湖笔薮》:近来素食中盛行一种素燕窝,宁波洋行很多,形状白而细长,空心虚软,俨然像食铺中的细条,有七、八寸至尺长不等,望去晶莹,握之轻虚,每三十多枝作一束,厨人买得,热水浇淋即起胀,柔然凝白类似官燕,用来进入素馔作为珍品,吃起来也淡而少味,不知道是什么东西造成的。有人说,是用糯粉、山谷做的,为什么遇到沸汤反而脆美?有人说,是铜铅的幼苗,出产在海外深山,食用可以明目。近日才知道有人使用,不知是否如此,附记等待考证。《北砚食规》有制作素燕窝的方法:先放入温水荡涤伸腰,随即浸入滚过冷水的内,等到作料配菜齐集,另锅制好,用笊篱捞出燕窝,将滚汤在笊篱上淋两三遍,可用,软而不糊,半透明状。
解食烟毒。
(Fifteen types, with eight attached)
Su Yanwo (Plain Bird's Nest)
Also known as Yan Cai Shu (Swallow Vegetable). Cong Xin records: It is produced in the coastal areas of Zhangzhou and Quanzhou. Swallows catch small fish and build nests with them in spring, which are then collected by humans. *Min Xiao Ji* states:
Swallows catch small fish and adhere them to rocks; over time, these form nests. There are three colors: black, white, and red. The black variety is of the lowest quality, while the red one is the rarest and can benefit children suffering from smallpox/rash diseases. The white variety can cure phlegm-related illnesses. *Quan Nan Za Zhi* states: In the distant seas near foreign lands in Fujian, there is a swallow named Jin Si (Golden Thread). Its head and tail resemble a swallow but are very small, and its feathers are like golden threads. When laying eggs and raising young, they fly in flocks near sandy mud areas with stones, pecking at and eating silkworm snails. On the back of the silkworm snail meat, there are two tendons like mulberry silk, hard, clean, and white. Eating it can tonify deficiency and damage, and cure dysentery and consumption syndromes. After this swallow eats the snail, the flesh is digested but the tendon is not. Along with saliva, it is vomited out, condensing into small nests attached to rocks. Over time, these grow with the chicks until they spread their wings and fly. Seaside people collect them according to the season, hence the name "Bird's Nest." Thus, its shape, function, timing, and species are all credible. *Ling Nan Za Ji* states: There are several types of bird's nest. Japan uses it as a vegetable for monks. This is when sea swallows eat insects on the coast; the insects have tendons on their backs that do not digest. The swallows spit these out to form nests, attaching them to the cliffs of sea mountains. Locals climb ropes to collect them. Those collected in spring are white, those in summer are yellow. They should not be collected in autumn or winter, as doing so leaves the swallows without shelter, causing them to freeze to death, resulting in no nests the following year. *Xiang Zu Bi Ji* states: Purple-colored bird's nest is especially good. *Ya Zhou Zhi* states: On the stone islands in the sea of Yazhou, there is a Dai Mao Mountain, whose caves are all nesting sites for swallows. The larger swallows are size of crows; after eating fish, they spit out saliva to prepare food for molting in winter. Locals wear leather clothes and hats, carrying torches to explore the caves. Startled swallows attack people; the elderly or weak may fall off cliffs and die. Hence, some harvest much, while others return empty-handed. This is the "vegetable from swallow nests." *Yue Lu* states: On seaside rocks, there is Hai Fen (Sea Powder), accumulating like moss. Swallows peck and eat it, spitting it out to form nests, hanging densely between rock walls. Islanders wait until they leave in autumn, using long poles with shovels to collect them. Hai Fen is cold in nature, but becomes warm after being ingested and regurgitated by swallows; Hai Fen is salty in taste, but becomes sweet after processing by swallows. Its form and substance are completely transformed, thus it can clear phlegm and stimulate appetite. Generally, there are black and white varieties; the red one is rare, likely because swallows belong to Fire, and red represents their essence. Also called Yan Shu (Swallow Vegetable), because it supplements what plants lack, hence "Vegetable." Yu Rou (Elm Meat) is produced in the North, Yan Wo in the South; both are vegetables. *Huan You Bi Ji* states: Bird's nest is produced in Nanyang, Japan, and other countries. Those collected in spring with white color are superior; those collected in autumn with yellow color are secondary. A slightly black and hairy variety is what remains after selection, and its price cannot be cheap. People with lung deficiency and weakness who take it for a long time can also moisten the lungs and stop coughing, with effects equal to Ren Shen (Ginseng) and Fu Ling (Poria). *Cha Pu Ji Wen* states: Southern swallows returning to overseas waters find it difficult to reach, so they peck small fish meat to make nests, holding them in their mouths while flying. When tired, they drop into the water within the nest, rest on top, recover slightly, and fly again holding the nest. Thus, during southeast winds, they drift close to the shore, allowing people to collect them. Ruan Kuisheng's *Cha Yu Ke Hua* states: Xu Qingyan (Song Ji), Fang Bo, told me: Bird's nest is produced in islands, among deep rocks and valleys, inaccessible by foot strength or rope/poles. Merchants raise small monkeys that understand human intent. They go to the island mountains, tie small cloth bags on the monkeys' backs, release them to climb trees and deep rocks, strip the nests, and fill the bags before returning. When the monkey leaves, it suffers from hunger and returns after three or four days. Sea travelers fill the bag with fruit snacks to prevent starvation during long trips. Clumsy monkeys immediately strip and fill the bag upon leaving; upon return, pouring out the bag yields only a few pieces because the snacks occupy space. Clever monkeys pour the snacks into the rock crevices, strip and fill the bag completely with bird's nest, return empty-handed, and go again, which is more convenient. One monkey costs hundreds of taels of gold, several times the price of a clumsy one. He also said: Xu Jinzhai Huang Men ate sugarcane juice and a large cup of bird's nest every morning upon rising, aiming for a melted and soft consistency, stating that others eat it raw, leading to no urination throughout the day.
Taste is sweet, bland, and neutral. It greatly nourishes Lung Yin, resolves phlegm, stops coughing, tonifies while clearing, and is a holy medicine for regulating deficiency and consumption syndromes. All diseases caused by Lung deficiency failing to descend clearly and turbidly can be treated with this; it opens the stomach qi, cures labor dysentery, benefits children's rashes, can be added to decoctions, or boiled alone for juice consumption. Cong Xin states: Nowadays, people use it to cook porridge or boil it with chicken broth. Although delicious, this disrupts its original nature of clearing and tonifying, how can it resolve phlegm? Some boil it with Bing Tang (Rock Sugar), making it sweet and cloying, how can it assist Lung Metal in descending clearly and turbidly? *Wu Li Xiao Shi* states: Bird's nest can stop frequent urination. *Feng Yuan* states: Sweet, neutral, non-toxic. Birds carry Hai Fen to make nests, obtaining the yang energy of wind and sun, transforming salty-cold into sweet-neutral. This promotes the mutual generation of Metal and Water, allowing Kidney Qi to nourish the Lungs from above, and Stomach Qi to find peace. It is the most gentle and benign among foods, unfortunately not收录 in Ben Cao (Materia Medica) and rarely used in Fang Shu (Formulary Books). Nowadays, people use it to regulate and tonify deficiency-consumption with coughing up red phlegm, often cooking it with Rock Sugar, frequently achieving efficacy. However, it is suitable only for early and mild conditions. If Yin fire is flourishing and blood is rushing upward, even using it will not help, due to its soft and yielding nature lacking firmness. Zhang Shiwen states: For sudden onset of coughing and hemoptysis that has just stopped, boil Bing Tang with Yan Wo Cai (Bird's Nest Vegetable) and take continuously, taking advantage of its balanced tonification of Lung and Stomach without the risk of stopping flow abruptly; however, for those with phlegm-dampness in the Stomach, it causes nausea because its sweetness and greasiness cling to the diaphragm. *Shi Wu Yi Ji* states: It strengthens Yang, boosts Qi, harmonizes the middle, opens the stomach, adds essence and marrow, moistens the lungs, stops chronic diarrhea, and eliminates phlegm-saliva. *Ling Nan Za Ji* states: The red variety treats bloody dysentery; steamed with pear and Rock Sugar, it treats phlegm in the chest/diaphragm.
He Huichuan states: For chronic vomiting due to Fan Wei (Reversal Stomach), some have recovered by consuming Human Milk and eating much bird's nest.
Elderly Phlegm-Asthma *Wen Tang Ji Yan Fang*: Use one Autumn White Pear (core removed), add one qian of Bird's Nest (soaked first in boiling water), then add one qian of Rock Sugar, steam until cooked. Take every morning without interruption. Divine efficacy.
Jin Kou Li (Aphagic Dysentery) *Jiu Sheng Ku Hai*: Two qian of White Bird's Nest, four fen of Ren Shen (Ginseng), seven parts water. Steam over water until cooked. Eat slowly. Immediate effect.
Su Yanwo (Vegetarian Bird's Nest) *Yue Hu Bi Sou*: Recently, a type of Su Yanwo has become popular in vegetarian cuisine, abundant in Ningbo foreign firms. It is white, slender, hollow, soft, and fragile, resembling thin strips in food shops, varying from seven or eight inches to a foot in length. It looks crystal clear, feels light and void in hand. About thirty-plus strands make a bundle. Chefs buy it; when poured with hot water, it swells. It coagulates white like Guan Yan (Official Bird's Nest), used as a delicacy in vegetarian dishes. Eating it is bland and flavorless. No one knows what it is made of. Some say it is made of glutinous rice flour and mountain valley materials; why does it become crisp and beautiful in boiling water? Others say it is the sprout of copper and lead, produced in deep mountains overseas, eating it can brighten the eyes. Recently, I learned that some use it, unsure if true. Attached for verification. *Bei Yan Shi Gui* has a method for making Su Yanwo: First, soak in warm water to extend, then immerse in boiled cold water. Wait until ingredients and side dishes are ready. Prepare in another pot, remove the Su Yanwo with a skimmer, rinse with boiling water two or three times over the skimmer. It is usable, soft but not mushy, semi-transparent.
Resolves tobacco smoke toxicity.