粤语∶ 鱼广人池塘多蓄之,以鱼秧长成,与鲫性相反。鲫属土,其性沉,长潜水中;
属
水,其性浮,长跃水上。鲫食之可以实肠, 食之可以行气,鲫守而 行,性各不同如此。
其物以冬而肥,故名。喜泳浮波上,得 流则跳跃寻丈。生食之,益人气力。 梧浔杂佩∶
鱼形似鲢而稍短,味甚美,作脍尤佳。健筋骨,活血行气,逐水利湿。
出海中,形如带,头尖尾细,长者至五、六尺大小不等,无鳞,身有涎,干之作银光色,
周
身无细骨,正中一脊骨如边箕状,两面皆肉裹之,今人常食为海鲜。据渔海人言,此鱼八月
中自外洋来,千百成群,在洋中辄衔尾而行,不受纲,惟钓斯可得。渔户率以干带鱼肉一块
作饵以钓之,一鱼上钓,则诸鱼皆相衔不断,掣取盈船。此鱼之出以八月,盛于十月,雾重
则鱼多,雾少则鱼少,率视雾以为贵贱云。纲目无鳞鱼条,独遗此品,故为补之。 五杂俎
∶闽有带鱼,长丈余,无鳞而腥,诸鱼中最贱者,献客不以登俎,然中人之家用油沃煎,亦
甚馨洁。 福清志∶带鱼身薄而长,其形如带,无鳞,入夜烂然有光,小者俗名带柳。 物
鉴∶带鱼形纤长似带,衔尾而行,渔人取得其一,则连类而起,不可断绝,至盈舟溢载,始
举刀割断,舍去其余。 玉环志∶带鱼首尾相衔而行。钓法∶用大绳一根,套竹筒作浮子,
顺浮洋面,缀小绳一百二十根,每小绳头上拴铜丝一尺,铜丝头拴铁钩长三寸,即以带鱼为
饵,未得带鱼之先,则以鼻涕鱼代之,凡钓海鱼皆如此。钓期自九月起至次年二月止,谓之
鱼汛。 朱排山柑园小识∶带鱼生海中,状如鳗,锐首扁身,大眼细齿,色白无鳞,脊骨如
篦,肉细而肥,长二三尺,形如带,亦谓之裙带鱼。冬时风浪大作,辄钓得之。 为鲞,以
致远。
味甘性平,和中开胃(食物宜忌)。
带鱼形长扁薄似带,色白无鳞,肉细佳;脍腌 风干,久藏不败。煎烹味美,多食发疥。
(
可连数十。腌食佳。黑夜有光,故有毒(药性考)。
粤语地区:鱼广泛的人家池塘里多蓄养它,因为鱼秧长成后,它的习性与鲫鱼相反。鲫鱼属土,性质下沉,常潜伏在水中;带鱼属水,性质上浮,常跃出水面。吃鲫鱼可以充实肠胃,吃带鱼可以行气,鲫鱼守静而带鱼行动,它们的性质各不相同如此。
这种鱼在冬天肥美,所以得名(指“鲞”或特定名称,原文此处似有脱漏或特指,结合下文“故名”,通常指其冬季特征或别名,此处直译)。喜欢游泳浮在水波上,遇到水流就会跳跃寻丈远。生吃它可以增加人的力气。
《梧浔杂佩》记载:带鱼形状像鲢鱼但稍短,味道非常鲜美,做成鱼脍尤其好。它能强健筋骨,活血行气,逐水利湿。
出自海中,形状像带子,头尖尾细,长的有五、六尺长,大小不等,没有鳞片,身上有黏液,晒干后呈银色光泽,周身没有细骨,中间一根脊骨像簸箕边缘状,两面都是肉包裹着,现在人们常把它作为海鲜食用。据海边渔夫说,这种鱼八月从外洋来,千百成群,在海中总是衔着尾巴游动,网无法捕获,只有用钓法才能得到。渔民通常用干带鱼肉一块做饵来钓它,一条鱼上钩,其他的鱼都互相衔着不断,拉上来装满船。这种鱼的出产以八月为始,十月最盛,雾重则鱼多,雾少则鱼少,价格高低通常看雾气情况而定。《本草纲目》无鳞鱼条目中,唯独遗漏了这种鱼,所以在此补录。
《五杂俎》记载:福建有带鱼,长达一丈多,没有鳞片且腥味重,是各种鱼中最便宜的,客人来了不拿来上桌做菜,但是中等人家如果用油煎炸,也非常香洁。
《福清志》记载:带鱼身体薄而长,形状像带子,没有鳞片,入夜发出光亮,小的俗名叫“带柳”。
《物鉴》记载:带鱼形状纤长像带子,衔尾而行,渔人取得其中一条,其他的就接连而起,不可断绝,直到装满船溢出车,才举起刀割断,舍弃其余的。
《玉环志》记载:带鱼首尾相衔而行。
钓法:用大绳一根,套竹筒作浮子,顺流漂浮在洋面上,缀小绳一百二十根,每根小绳头上拴铜丝一尺,铜丝头拴铁钩长三寸,就用带鱼做饵,在没有得到带鱼之前,就用鼻涕鱼代替,凡是钓海鱼都是这样。垂钓期自九月起到次年二月止,叫做“鱼汛”。
朱排山《柑园小识》记载:带鱼生于海中,形状像鳗鱼,头尖身扁,大眼睛细牙齿,颜色白无鳞片,脊骨像梳子齿,肉细而肥,长二三尺,形状像带子,也叫做裙带鱼。冬天风浪大作时,就能钓到它。制成鱼鲞,可以运送到远方。
味甘性平,和中开胃(食物宜忌)。
带鱼形状长扁薄像带子,颜色白无鳞片,肉质细嫩佳美;做成鱼脍、腌制或风干,久藏不坏。煎烹味道鲜美,多吃会诱发疥疮。(可连食数十条。腌制食用佳。黑夜发光,所以有毒(药性考)。
Cantonese dialect: In regions where fish are abundant, people often cultivate them in ponds. Once the fingerlings grow into adults, their nature is opposite to that of the crucian carp (Carassius auratus). The crucian carp belongs to Earth element, its nature is sinking, and it stays submerged in water; [the hairtail] belongs to Water element, its nature is floating, and it often leaps above the water surface. Eating crucian carp can solidify the intestines, while eating hairtail can promote Qi circulation. The former is static while the latter is active; thus, their natures differ significantly.
This fish becomes fat in winter, hence its name. It likes to swim on the surface of waves and jumps several zhang when encountering currents. Consuming it raw can augment human strength.
*Wuxun Zapie*: The hairtail resembles the silver carp but is slightly shorter, with a very delicious taste, especially when prepared as sashimi (kuai). It strengthens the muscles and bones, invigorates blood circulation, promotes Qi movement, and expels water dampness.
Found in the sea, it resembles a belt, with a pointed head and a thin tail. Its length varies from five to six chi. It has no scales, and its body secretes mucus. When dried, it appears silvery. There are no fine bones throughout the body; only one central vertebral column remains, shaped like the edge of a winnowing basket, with meat enveloping both sides. Nowadays, people commonly consume it as seafood. According to fishermen, this fish arrives from the open ocean in August, swimming in schools of thousands. They swim in a chain, holding each other's tails, making them impossible to catch with nets. Only fishing can catch them. Fishermen usually use pieces of dried hairtail meat as bait. Once one fish bites, the others follow in a chain, allowing the boat to be filled upon retrieval. This fish appears in August and peaks in October. Heavy fog indicates an abundance of fish, while light fog indicates scarcity. Prices generally fluctuate according to the fog conditions. *Bencao Gangmu* omitted this species under the section of scaleless fish, so it is added here for supplementation.
*Wuzazu*: In Fujian, there is hairtail over three meters long. It is scaleless and fishy, considered the cheapest among all fish. It is not served to guests at the table. However, households of moderate means fry it with oil, and it becomes very fragrant and clean.
*Fuqing Zhi*: The hairtail is thin and long, resembling a belt. It is scaleless and emits light at night. Smaller ones are colloquially called "Dailiu".
*Wujian*: The hairtail is slender and long like a belt, swimming in a chain. When fishermen catch one, the rest follow continuously without breaking the chain until the boat is full and overflowing. Then they cut the chain with a knife and discard the rest.
*Yuhuan Zhi*: Hairtail swim with heads and tails connected.
Fishing method: Use a long rope with bamboo tubes as floats, drifting on the ocean surface. Attach 120 small lines to the main rope. Each small line has a one-chi copper wire tied to its end, with a three-cun iron hook attached to the copper wire. Use hairtail meat as bait. Before obtaining hairtail, use "snotty fish" as a substitute. This method applies to catching all sea fish. The fishing season runs from September to February of the following year, known as the "fish season".
Zhu Paishan, *Ganyuan Xiaoshi*: Hairtail lives in the sea, resembling an eel, with a sharp head, flat body, large eyes, and fine teeth. It is white, scaleless, with a spine like a comb. The flesh is fine and fatty, two to three chi long, resembling a belt, also called "skirt hairtail". During winter storms, it can be caught easily. It can be made into dried fish (xiang) for long-distance transport.
Taste is sweet, nature is neutral. It harmonizes the middle jiao and stimulates appetite (Food Taboos).
The hairtail is long, flat, and thin like a belt, white and scaleless, with fine and excellent meat. Prepared as sashimi, pickled, or air-dried, it can be stored for a long time without spoiling. Fried or cooked, it tastes delicious, but excessive consumption may induce scabies. (Can be eaten in batches of dozens. Pickled is good. It glows at night, therefore it is considered toxic (Xiaoxing Kao).