\r秦皮\ph340.bmp\r,生庐江川谷及冤句,今陕西州郡及河阳亦有之。其木大都似檀,
枝干皆青绿色,叶如
匙头许大而不光,并无花实,根似槐根。二月、八月采皮,阴干。其皮有白点而不粗错,俗
呼为自 木。取皮渍水便碧色,书纸看之青色,此为真也。
\r茗、苦 \ph341.bmp\r,旧不着所出州郡,今闽浙、蜀荆、江湖、淮南山中皆有之。
《尔雅》所谓 ,苦
。郭璞云∶木小似栀子,冬生,叶可煮作羹饮。今呼早采者为荼,晚取者为茗。茗、 ,
蜀人谓之苦荼是也。今通谓之茶。茶、荼声近,故呼之。春中始生嫩叶,蒸焙去苦水,末之
乃可饮。与古所食,殊不同也。《茶经》曰∶茶者,南方佳木。自一尺、二尺至数十尺,
其
巴川峡山有两人合抱者,伐而掇之。木如瓜芦,叶如栀子,花如白蔷薇,实如 榈,蒂如丁
香,根如胡桃。其名一曰荼,二曰 ,三曰 (音设),四曰茗,五曰 。又曰茶之别者,
其
枳壳芽,枸杞芽,枇杷芽,皆治风疾。又有皂荚芽,槐芽,柳芽,乃上春摘其芽,和茶作之
。故今南人输官
茶,往往杂以众叶,惟茅芦、竹箬之类不可入,自余山中草木芽叶,皆可和合。椿、柿尤奇
。真茶性极冷,惟雅州蒙山出者温,而主疾。《茶谱》云∶蒙山有五顶,顶有茶园,其中顶
曰上清峰。昔有人病冷且久,遇一老父谓曰∶蒙之中顶茶,当以春分之先后,多耩人力,俟
雷之发声,并手采摘,三日而止。若获一两,以本外水煎服,即能祛宿疾,二两当眼前无疾
,三两固以换骨,四两即为地仙矣。其僧如说,获一两余,服未尽而病瘥。其四顶茶园,采
摘不废。惟中峰草木繁密,云雾蔽亏,鸷兽时出,故人迹不到矣。近岁稍贵此品,制作亦精
于
他处,其性似不甚冷,大都饮茶少则醒神思,过多则致疾病,故唐《母景茶饮序》云∶释滞
消壅,一日不利暂佳,瘠气侵精终身之累,斯大是也。
秦皮,生长在庐江的川谷以及冤句等地,现在陕西各州郡以及河阳也有出产。它的树木大体上像檀木,枝干都是青绿色的,叶子像汤匙头那样大但不光滑,没有花和果实,根部类似槐树根。二月和八月采集树皮,阴干。这种树皮上有白点且不粗糙,俗称“自木”。取皮浸泡在水中会呈现碧绿色,用其水在纸上书写看是青色,这才是真品。
茗、苦(茶),旧籍中没有记载其生长的州郡,现在福建、浙江、四川、荆湖、江淮及淮南的山中都有生长。《尔雅》中所说的“槚”,就是苦茶。郭璞说:树木较小像栀子树,冬天常青,叶子可以煮成羹汤饮用。现在称早采的为“荼”,晚采的为“茗”。茗、荼,蜀人称之为苦荼,现在通称为茶。“茶”、“荼”读音相近,所以这样称呼。春天开始生出嫩叶,经过蒸制焙干去除苦味水,磨碎后才可饮用。这与古人所食用的方式完全不同。《茶经》说:茶,是南方的优良树木。从一尺、二尺到几十尺高,其中巴川峡山有两人合抱粗的,砍伐后采摘。树木像瓜芦,叶子像栀子,花像白蔷薇,果实像棕榈,蒂像丁香,根像胡桃。它的名目有一个叫荼,二个叫槚,三个叫蔎(音设),四个叫茗,五个荈。又说茶的变种有:枳壳芽、枸杞芽、枇杷芽,都能治疗风疾。又有皂荚芽、槐芽、柳芽,是在早春采摘这些芽,混合茶叶制作。所以现在南方人向官府进贡的茶,往往混杂各种树叶,只有茅芦、竹箬之类的不能放入,其余山中草木的芽叶,都可以混合使用。椿芽、柿芽尤其奇特。真正的茶性极冷,只有雅州蒙山出产的茶性温,且主治疾病。《茶谱》说:蒙山有五顶,每顶都有茶园,其中主峰叫上清峰。过去有人患寒病很久,遇到一位老翁对他说:“蒙山的中心峰茶,应当在春分前后,多雇人力,等到雷声响起时,亲手采摘,三天停止。如果获得一两,用井外之水煎服,就能祛除宿疾;二两则眼前无病;三两足以换骨;四两就成为地仙了。”僧人如说,获得一两多,药没吃完病就好了。其他四顶的茶园,采摘从未停止。只有中峰草木繁密,云雾遮蔽,猛兽时常出没,所以人迹罕至。近年此茶稍贵,制作工艺也精于他处,其性质似乎不太冷。大体上饮茶少则清醒神思,过多则导致疾病,所以唐代《母景茶饮序》说:疏通滞气消除壅塞,一天不喝暂时还好,耗损精气是终身的累赘,这话说得很对。
Qinpi (Cortex Fraxini), grows in the valleys of Lujiang and Yuanju, and is now also found in various prefectures of Shaanxi and Heyang. The tree resembles Dalbergia (Rosewood) generally, with branches and trunks being greenish-blue. The leaves are about the size of a spoon head but not smooth; it has no flowers or fruits, and the root resembles that of Sophora (Chinese Scholar Tree). The bark is harvested in February and August and dried in the shade. The bark has white spots and is not rough, commonly called "Zimu" (Self-wood). When soaked in water, it turns emerald green; writing on paper with this water appears cyan, which indicates authenticity.
Ming (Tea leaf) and Ku (Bitter tea), previously unrecorded regarding their origin prefectures, are now found in mountains of Fujian, Zhejiang, Sichuan, Jinghu, Jianghuai, and Huainan. The "Jia" mentioned in *Erya* refers to bitter tea. Guo Pu stated: The tree is small like Gardenia jasminoides, evergreen in winter, and leaves can be boiled into soup for drinking. Now, early-picked ones are called "Tu", while late-picked ones are called "Ming". Ming and Tu are what Shu people call "Ku Tu" (Bitter Tea), now generally referred to as "Cha" (Tea). Due to the phonetic similarity between "Cha" and "Tu", it is named so. In spring, tender leaves emerge, which are steamed, baked to remove bitter juices, ground into powder, and then ready for consumption. This differs significantly from ancient consumption methods. *The Classic of Tea* states: Tea is a fine tree of the South. It ranges from one to two feet up to tens of feet high. In Bachuan and Xia Mountains, some trees are thick enough for two people to embrace; they are felled for harvesting. The wood resembles Citrullus colocynthis (Colocynth); leaves resemble Gardenia jasminoides; flowers resemble Rosa banksiae (White Rose); fruits resemble Areca catechu (Betel Nut); calyx resembles Syzygium aromaticum (Cloves); roots resemble Juglans regia (Walnut). Its names include: 1. Tu, 2. Jia, 3. She (pronounced 'she'), 4. Ming, 5. Chan. Varieties of tea also include buds of Aurantium (Citrus aurantium), Lycium chinense (Goji), and Eriobotrya japonica (Loquat), all treating wind disorders. Additionally, buds of Gleditsia sinensis (Chinese Honey Locust), Sophora japonica (Pagoda Tree), and Salix babylonica (Weeping Willow) are picked in early spring and mixed with tea. Thus, tribute teas from the South often mix various leaves, except for those of Phragmites communis (Reed) or bamboo sheaths; other mountain plant buds and leaves can be blended. Buds of Toona sinensis (Chinese Mahogany) and Diospyros kaki (Persimmon) are particularly unique. True tea has an extremely cold nature, whereas tea from Mengshan in Yazhou is warm and primarily treats diseases. *The Tea Manual* says: Mengshan has five peaks, each with tea gardens, the central peak being Shangqing Peak. Once, a person suffering from chronic cold disease met an old man who said: "For Mengshan's central peak tea, hire ample labor around the Spring Equinox. Wait for thunder to sound, then hand-pick for three days. One tael, decocted with well water, cures chronic ailments; two taels ensure current health; three taels transform the bones; four taels make one an Earth Immortal." Monk Rushuo obtained over one tael, and his illness healed before finishing it. Harvesting continues at the other four peaks without cessation. Only the central peak is dense with vegetation, shrouded in clouds and mist, with fierce beasts appearing occasionally, making it inaccessible to humans. Recently, this variety has become more expensive, and its processing is superior to other regions; its nature seems less cold. Generally, drinking little tea awakens the mind, but excessive drinking causes disease. Thus, the preface to *Mother Jing's Tea Drink* in the Tang Dynasty states: "It clears stagnation and resolves obstruction; failing to drink for a day brings temporary relief, but consuming qi and essence is a lifelong burden," which is highly accurate.