干笋
纲目竹入苞木类,以笋附菜部,所载亦只苦竹、 竹、淡竹、冬竹诸笋,且于义类多未
详尽
。不知春、冬所出,性皆各别,鲜干诸品,味亦迥殊,则入经络主治,自不能合一。陈芝山
食品真一笋谱及食纂所载较详,颇近时尚,即取以补之。
春笋 笋谱∶其佳者曰猪蹄红,冬月即生,埋头土中,以锄掘之,可三寸许,其味极鲜,
甲
于他笋,未出土名猪蹄红;若长尺许,则其箨圆,故人名圆笋,亦名蚤笋,盖冠诸笋而先出
者。
味甘辛微寒,下气养血,利膈消痰,化热爽胃,解渴利水,疗风邪,止喘嗽。
毛笋 即茅竹笋,笋之大者。笋谱∶毛笋为诸笋之王,其箨有毛,故名。俗呼为猫笋者,
非
也。大者重几二十余斤,犹未出土,肉白如霜,堕地即碎,以指掐之,其软嫩如腐,嗅之作
兰花香。毛笋大者,清明后方有,其出于腊月及正月者;形短小,箨亦有毛,土人名猫儿头
,食之多嘈心,然消痰之力,较胜他笋。味甘性平,利九窍,通血脉,化痰涎,消食胀,多
食令人易饥。
鞭笋 即发于竹边者,夏秋有之。其生于四月者,曰梅边,盖感梅雨湿蒸之气,而生颇
早,
味淡肉硬,不如秋生者。笋谱∶边笋,即毛笋之旁出者。方笋盛时,生气上升,笋皆竖;生
气既衰,根既横生,尽其力可横亘十余丈,至地之边际,与竹之长短相称,谓之竹边,故名
边笋。其状类鞭,亦名鞭笋。地肥者软嫩,长尺许,其箨紫色而兼白,其味恬淡而鲜,其气
醇而有蕴借,不类毛竹之精英尽发泄于外也。
味甘性寒,开胃利肠,消痰渴。
冬笋 即潭笋。沈云将食纂∶猫竹冬生笋,不出土者名冬笋,又名潭笋。
味甘温(陈芝山宜忌云∶味甘性寒),利九窍,通血脉,治吐血衄血,及产后心腹痛,
一切血
症,食之肥白人(食纂)。消痰滑肠,透毒解酲,发痘疹;中诸笋毒者,生姜、麻油解。小
儿
及脾虚者,多食难化(食物宜忌)。痘疹不出,采未出土冬笋煮粥食,即有生发之意(不药
良
方)。
青笋 即青竹笋。竹细小,故出笋色青。山间遍地有之,系野竹所生笋也,即时下俗呼
水竹
者是也。(胡承谋湖州府志∶天目出笋干,其色绿,闻其煮法∶旋汤使急转下笋,再不犯器
,即绿矣。)
味甘,止肺痿吐血鼻衄,治五痔并妊娠(食纂)。
青笋干 即青竹笋盐汤煮晒干者;出杭临安天目者最佳,色如鹦哥绿,有尖上、尖球子、
二尖等名。
味咸甘,性平,爽胃消痰。
盐笋干 以春笋盐汤煮晒而成,有泥黄、乌尖、直脚等名。
味咸甘,性平,行气清痰。
衢笋干 以笋用盐汤煮熟熏干而成。
味咸甘,性平,利膈化痰。
羊尾笋干 主治同。
处笋片 俗名素火腿,以毛笋微腌汤煮熏干而成。
味甘微咸,性平,利血消痰。
绿笋片 即玉版笋,以毛笋淡煮晒干者。浙、闽、江西多有,有草鞋底、蝴蝶尖、玉版
等名
谓之阔绿,有名泥里黄者尤美。
味甘性平,治实喘消痰。张石顽云∶干笋淡片,利水豁痰,水肿葶苈丸用之。
干笋
《本草纲目》将竹子归入苞木类,而把笋附在蔬菜部,所记载的也只是苦竹、[缺字]竹、淡竹、冬竹等几种笋,而且在义理分类上大多不够详尽。不知道春季和冬季生长的笋,性质各自不同;鲜笋和干笋各品种,味道也截然不同,那么它们进入经络后的主治功效,自然不能混为一谈。陈芝山的《食品真一笋谱》及《食纂》中记载得较为详细,很接近当时的风尚,于是取来补充这部分内容。
春笋 《笋谱》记载:其中最好的叫做“猪蹄红”,在冬天就生长,头埋在土里,用锄头挖掘出来,大约三寸长,味道极其鲜美,超过其他各种笋。还没出土时叫“猪蹄红”;如果长到一尺左右,它的笋壳是圆形的,所以人们叫它“圆笋”,也叫“蚤笋”,大概是各类笋中率先出土的一种。
味甘、辛,微寒。能下气养血,宽胸利膈、消除痰液,清热爽胃,解渴利尿,治疗风邪,止住喘咳。
毛笋 即茅竹笋,是笋中个头较大的。《笋谱》记载:毛笋是诸笋之王,因为它的笋壳上有毛,所以得名。俗称为“猫笋”的,是不对的。大的重达二十多斤,还未出土时,肉质白如霜雪,落地即碎,用手指掐它,软嫩得像腐肉一样,闻起来有兰花香气。大的毛笋清明之后才有,那些腊月及正月出产的,形状短小,笋壳也有毛,当地人叫它“猫儿头”,吃多了让人心里烦闷嘈杂,然而其化痰的力量,胜过其他笋。味甘,性平。能通利九窍,疏通血脉,化解痰涎,消除食积胀满,多吃使人容易饥饿。
鞭笋 即生长在竹根边缘的笋,夏秋季节有。四月份生长的,叫做“梅边”,大概是感应了梅雨潮湿蒸腾之气,所以生长得很早,味道淡,肉质硬,不如秋天生长的。《笋谱》记载:边笋,就是毛笋旁边长出来的。当方笋(指毛笋)茂盛时,生气上升,笋都竖立着;生气衰退后,根部横向生长,耗尽力量可以横亘十余丈,直到土地的边际,与竹子的高低长短相适应,叫做“竹边”,所以名叫“边笋”。它的形状像鞭子,也叫“鞭笋”。土地肥沃的地方长得软嫩,长约一尺,笋壳紫色夹杂白色,味道恬淡而鲜美,气息醇厚而有含蓄,不像毛竹那样精华全部发泄在外面。
冬笋 即潭笋。沈云将《食纂》记载:猫竹冬天生的笋,不出土的叫冬笋,又名潭笋。
味甘,温(陈芝山《宜忌》说:味甘,性寒)。能通利九窍,疏通血脉,治疗吐血、鼻出血,以及产后心腹疼痛,一切血证,吃了能使身体肥胖的人(《食纂》)。能消痰滑肠,透发毒气、解除酒醉,促使痘疹发出;中了各种笋毒的,用生姜、麻油可以解毒。小儿及脾虚的人,多吃难以消化(《食物宜忌》)。痘疹发不出来,采摘未出土的冬笋煮粥吃,就有生发之意(《不药良方》)。
青笋 即青竹笋。竹子细小,所以出的笋颜色发青。山里到处都是,是野竹所生的笋,也就是时下俗称为“水竹”的那种。(胡承谋《湖州府志》记载:天目山产的笋干,颜色绿,听说它的煮法:迅速滚水下笋,不再接触容器,就变绿了。)
味甘。能止肺痿吐血、鼻衄,治疗五种痔疮并妊娠相关病症(《食纂》)。
青笋干 即用青竹笋经盐汤煮熟晒干而成;产自杭州临安天目山的最佳,颜色像鹦鹉的绿色,有尖上、尖球子、二尖等名称。
味咸甘,性平。能爽胃消痰。
盐笋干 以春笋经盐汤煮熟晒干而成,有泥黄、乌尖、直脚等名称。
味咸甘,性平。能行气清痰。
衢笋干 以笋用盐汤煮熟熏干而成。
味咸甘,性平。能利膈化痰。
羊尾笋干 主治功效同前。
处笋片 俗名素火腿,以毛笋轻微腌制后经汤煮熏干而成。
味甘微咸,性平。能利血消痰。
绿笋片 即玉版笋,以毛笋清淡煮熟晒干而成。浙江、福建、江西多有出产,有草鞋底、蝴蝶尖、玉版等名称。称之为“阔绿”的,还有名为“泥里黄”的尤其美味。
Dried Bamboo Shoots
In *Bencao Gangmu* (Compendium of Materia Medica), bamboo is classified under the category of Bao Mu (trees with sheathing leaves), while shoots are attached to the vegetable section. The recorded varieties include only bitter bamboo, [missing character] bamboo, light bamboo, and winter bamboo shoots, and the classification principles are largely incomplete. It is unknown that shoots emerging in spring and winter have distinct properties; furthermore, fresh and dried varieties differ significantly in taste. Consequently, their therapeutic effects on meridians cannot be unified. Chen Zhishan's *Shipin Zhenyi Sunpu* (True One Bamboo Shoot Spectrum of Food) and *Shizan* (Records of Food) provide more detailed records, aligning well with contemporary trends, so they are taken here to supplement this section.
Spring Bamboo Shoots
According to *Sunpu* (Bamboo Shoot Spectrum): The finest variety is called "Zhu Ti Hong" (Pig Trotlet Red). It grows in winter, buried underground, and can be dug up with a hoe, measuring about three cun in length. Its taste is extremely fresh and superior to other shoots. Before emerging from the soil, it is named "Zhu Ti Hong"; if it grows to about one chi, its sheath becomes round, hence people call it "Yuan Sun" (Round Shoot) or also "Zao Sun" (Flea Shoot), as it is likely the first among all shoots to emerge.
Taste: Sweet, acrid, slightly cold. Actions: Directs qi downward, nourishes blood, benefits the diaphragm and eliminates phlegm, clears heat and refreshes the stomach, relieves thirst and promotes urination, treats wind pathogens, and stops wheezing and coughing.
Mao Bamboo Shoots (Hairy Shoots)
These are shoots of Mao Zhu (Hairy Bamboo), which are large among shoots. *Sunpu* states: Mao shoots are the kings of all shoots; because their sheaths have hairs, they are so named. The common name "Mao Sun" (Cat Shoot) is incorrect. Large ones weigh over twenty jin before emerging. The flesh is white as frost, shatters upon hitting the ground, and feels soft and tender like rot when pinched by finger; it smells of orchid fragrance. Large Mao shoots appear after Qingming Festival. Those produced in the twelfth lunar month and the first lunar month are short and small, with hairy sheaths. Locals call them "Mao Er Tou" (Cat Kid Head); consuming too much causes heart palpitations and discomfort. However, their ability to resolve phlegm surpasses other shoots. Taste: Sweet. Nature: Neutral. Actions: Opens the nine orifices, unblocks blood vessels, transforms saliva and phlegm, reduces food stagnation and bloating. Excessive consumption makes one prone to hunger.
Whip Bamboo Shoots (Bian Sun)
These grow at the edges of bamboo clumps and are available in summer and autumn. Those born in the fourth month are called "Mei Bian" (Plum Edge), likely due to early growth stimulated by the humid and steaming air of the Plum Rain season. Their taste is bland and flesh hard, inferior to those grown in autumn. *Sunpu* notes: Bian shoots are lateral offshoots of Mao shoots. When Mao shoots are vigorous, rising vital energy makes shoots stand upright; as vitality declines, roots grow horizontally, extending powerfully for over ten zhang to the land's edge, proportional to the height of the bamboo. This is called "Zhu Bian" (Bamboo Edge), hence the name "Bian Sun". Its shape resembles a whip, so it is also named "Bian Sun". In fertile soil, they are soft and tender, about one chi long, with purple-and-white sheaths, a bland yet fresh taste, and a mellow, restrained aroma, unlike Mao bamboo where essence is fully exposed externally.
Taste: Sweet. Nature: Cold. Actions: Stimulates appetite, benefits intestines, resolves phlegm and thirst.
Winter Bamboo Shoots
Also known as Tan Sun (Pool Shoots). Shen Yunjiang's *Shizan* records: Winter shoots of Mao Zhu that do not emerge from the soil are called Dong Sun (Winter Shoots), also known as Tan Sun.
Taste: Sweet. Nature: Warm (Chen Zhishan's *Yiji* states: Sweet, cold). Actions: Opens the nine orifices, unblocks blood vessels, treats hematemesis (vomiting blood) and epistaxis (nosebleed), postpartum abdominal pain, and all blood disorders. Consumption leads to weight gain in emaciated individuals (*Shizan*). Resolves phlegm, lubricates intestines, expels toxins, resolves alcohol intoxication, and induces eruption of smallpox/rashes. Poisoning from various bamboo shoots is antidoted with fresh ginger and sesame oil. Children and those with spleen deficiency find excessive consumption difficult to digest (*Shiwu Yiji*). For non-erupting smallpox/rashes, boiling unemerged winter shoots into porridge aids eruption (*Bu Yao Liang Fang*).
Qing Bamboo Shoots (Green Shoots)
These are shoots of Qing Zhu (Green Bamboo). Because the bamboo is slender, the shoots appear green. They are found everywhere in mountains, generated by wild bamboo, and correspond to what is commonly called "Shui Zhu" (Water Bamboo) today. (Hu Chengmou's *Huzhou Fuzhi* records: Dried shoots from Tianmu Mountain are green. The cooking method involves rapidly dropping shoots into boiling water without touching the vessel walls, preserving the green color.)
Taste: Sweet. Actions: Stops pulmonary consumptive disease with hemoptysis and epistaxis, treats five types of hemorrhoids and conditions related to pregnancy (*Shizan*).
Dried Green Bamboo Shoots
Made by boiling Qing bamboo shoots in salted water and sun-drying. The best come from Tianmu Mountain, Lin'an, Hangzhou. They are parrot-green in color and have names such as Jian Shang (Top Tip), Jian Qiu Zi (Tip Ball), and Er Jian (Two Tips).
Taste: Salty, sweet. Nature: Neutral. Actions: Refreshes the stomach and resolves phlegm.
Salted Dried Bamboo Shoots
Made by boiling spring shoots in salted water and sun-drying. Varieties include Ni Huang (Mud Yellow), Wu Jian (Black Tip), and Zhi Jiao (Straight Leg).
Taste: Salty, sweet. Nature: Neutral. Actions: Promotes qi circulation and clears phlegm.
Qu Dried Bamboo Shoots
Made by boiling shoots in salted water and smoking/drying them.
Taste: Salty, sweet. Nature: Neutral. Actions: Benefits the diaphragm and resolves phlegm.
Dried Sheep Tail Shoots
Therapeutic actions are the same as above.
Chu Bamboo Shoot Slices
Commonly known as Su Huo Tui (Vegetarian Ham). Made by lightly pickling Mao shoots, boiling in water, and smoking/drying.
Taste: Sweet, slightly salty. Nature: Neutral. Actions: Benefits blood and resolves phlegm.
Green Bamboo Shoot Slices
Also known as Yu Ban Sun (Jade Slab Shoots). Made by lightly boiling Mao shoots and sun-drying. Common in Zhejiang, Fujian, and Jiangxi. Names include Cao Xie Di (Grass Shoe Sole), Hu Die Jian (Butterfly Tip), and Yu Ban (Jade Slab). Those called "Kuo Lü" (Broad Green) include a variety named "Ni Li Huang" (Yellow Inside Mud) which is particularly exquisite.
Taste: Sweet. Nature: Neutral. Actions: Treats excess-type wheezing and resolves phlegm. Zhang Shiweng stated: Dried plain bamboo shoot slices promote urination and resolve phlegm; they are used in Ting Li Wan (Descurainia Seed Pill) for edema.